With over a hundred pieces, Cartier’s latest high jewellery collection is considerable, which means every piece must hold its own against a host of resplendent siblings.
Each piece, says Creative Director Jacqueline Karachi, has its own rhythm on a spectrum ranging between serenity and strength. But the inspiration behind the Résonances de Cartier collection was to bring it all together in harmony, much like a choir.
Can you tell us more about the Résonances de Cartier collection and its character?
We have translated the energy we feel when we discover the stone, and we try to decode and amplify this so that we can explain to you how we feel in front of the stone. It is a transmission of the sense of high jewellery, which are stones, and when decoded everyone can understand the essence of our creations. The creations all form a collection which I liken to an orchestra, and every instrument is a stone which plays a different part to create a harmony.
Do you listen to music when you are designing?
Yes, because it speaks to my emotions.
Can you share with us which stone is dominant in this collection, and why it is special to you?
For me there are no dominant stones, they are all different and unique. However, the tourmaline stone is particularly unique to me, as it is the first time I have seen such a stone. I personally travel internationally to find the stones which make up the collection, and when I see a special stone the energy feels so intense, which is very hard to put into words.
Tell us about the 84-carat watermelon tourmaline stone?
This is an incredible stone, and maybe the first and last of this type of stones. We searched for others so we could make a set, but it was impossible to find a stone like it. The colour tones and the arrangement of them from the centre to the outside are truly unique.
Do you personally have a favourite stone?
I don’t especially, and it is not so much a question of a particular one, but it is more to be moved by the stone.
Can you describe your typical design process?
It starts with the stones, and when we have the chosen stones we ask the designers to select the stone they like. From there, the style will be chosen from a bracelet, necklace, ring, or earrings, and then the designer will look to the stone for its message and decide what spirit to translate with it, through the addition of further stones. We always wait for the story that comes from the stone, and the emotion it translates.
What is a direction and mood that you still aim to work on with a jewellery collection?
To express something we need, because we live in a society where we are like sponges and react to what happens in the world. The theme comes from what we are missing, and what women need to feel good.
Can you share with us the challenges that you have faced across your career?
The evolution of Cartier style is very important to me, and that can certainly be challenging. When I receive positive feedback to a new collection it really matters. As an artist I always feel doubt before presenting pieces to the world, so recognition really matters.
Tell us something that you dislike in life?
Lying, as it is important for me to be authentic.
What is the main value that you live by?
When there is a will there is a way. I like this because it is what I have done, my career growth has been unexpected, and I like to challenge myself.
How would you like the world to remember you?
I don’t mind whether the world remembers me, but I don’t want my creations to be forgotten, and I don’t want my team to forget what I have taught them.
Can you share with us what we can expect next from Cartier?
By Lara Mansour Sawaya