Elie Saab used the latest couture show as an opportunity to reflect back on his relationship with Paris and his artistic journey through Barcelona.
Choosing Musée des Arts Décoratifs, the location of his very first Haute Couture show in the French capital some years ago, the collection is named ‘Of Forms and Light’ stems from a journey through the city of Barcelona and the influences of Spanish architect Gaudi, especially his masterpiece Casa Mila – ‘La Pedrera’. The balance of light and structure has inspired Saab to create pieces that play with these two ideas.
Sequins, crystals and pearls in an array of shapes and sized were weaved together dramatic silhouettes. The sculptural shapes and decadent detailing were enhanced by the transparency that allowed the light to seep through layers of fabric.
Tailoring was also a strong focus, but they were given the Saab treatment. Infused with cocktail glamour attitude, there were neat embellished jackets with power shoulders worn over a matching mini dresses, and neat blue trousers paired with a jacket decorated in buttons.
There was plenty to entertain the eye, especially when longer dresses with draped fabric glided down the runway. Of course there was brocade and Gazar, but also rich leafy drawings inspired from ornate fer forgé shapes that swirled round the models bodies, further showcasing the Maison’s glamorous expression of the natural world.
If the collection can be summarised in one look it was the bridal finale gown that almost needed it’s own runway for the huge skirt. Heavily decorated in pearls and beading, it was the ‘caged’ veil that paid a fashionable tribute to Gaudi and confirmed Saabs ability to harmoniously blend couture craftsmanship with art.