Italian Craftmanship And 90s Minimalism Play Big For Tod’s SS24 Womenswear Collection

Emma Hodgson   |   26-09-2023

For SS24 Tod’s Creative Director Walter Chiapponi showcased a collection at Milan Fashion Week which focused on essential design and quality Italian craftsmanship.

 Details focus on the cut, volume and quality of the materials. 

Meanwhile, the references to masculinity and 1990s minimalism are reinterpreted with a feminine attitude, where each traditionally tailored garment is accentuated by softness and fluidity. 

For the reveal of the new collection Tod’s chose the place that to the house best expresses Italian craftsmanship: the Laboratori Scala Ansaldo in Milan where scenographers, sculptors and carpenters create the extraordinary scenography of the Teatro alla Scala, as well as Tod’s artisans create collections of the highest quality. 

Immersed in the mise en scène of the production of Don Carlos, scheduled for the premiere of the Teatro alla Scala in December, Tod’s showcased their new womenswear capsule.

The suits, with ample pleated trousers and collarless jackets, are unlined and deconstructed in very light, loose fabrics; the sartorial waistcoat becomes a feminine gesture, sensual on naked skin; the trench coat, an essential element of the Tod’s wardrobe, is presented in sheer fabrics and very light-coloured leather. 

The blouson in both light cotton and soft nappa leather is fresh; the poplin T-shirt with kimono sleeves, worn with a large multi-purpose belt that completes many looks, is alluring; the pleated patchwork skirt is seductive; the crochet-effect knitwear in bright contrasting colours is tactile and handcrafted.

The monochrome of natural colours – écru, camel, tobacco and scorched tones – which recall that of the leatherware that makes Tod’s so distinctive, is contrasted against touches of lime green.

The fabrics are always very light and soft: viscose, linen gauze, transparent cool wool and ultrasoft nappa leather. 

The bags which complete each look are unadorned, becoming cult objects essential in their shape determined by the structure and leather. The iconic Di Bag is seamless and stretched while the T Timeless bags are in embossed leather. The new geometric, structured Tod’s T-Box bag is in polished leather with a metal T fastening. The new shopping bag is a fabric and leather bag, which is modelled on the body of the wearer.