Established in 1947, Emilio Pucci is one of Italy’s storied jet-set brands of the Sixties, synonymous with dazzling prints on silk jersey, which the founder even applied to skiwear early in his career, pioneering a lifestyle approach to fashion.
Emilio Pucci died on November 29, 1992, leaving behind his wife, the Roman Baronessa, Cristina Nannini, and their daughter. After his death, his daughter, Laudomia Pucci, took the reins and continued to design under her father’s name. Laudomia had originally joined the family business in 1985, after graduating from Luiss University Rome with a B.A. in Economics and Politics, before moving to Hubert de Givenchy in Paris in 1987 to work on Ready-to-Wear and accessories production and sales. This experience allowed Laudomia to return in 1989 well equipped for a new role as Chief Executive Officer of Emilio Pucci, covering management, organisation, and logistics, as well as the re-launch and restructuring of the company. She went on to redefine the style, image, commercial and marketing approach of the brand, including a new distribution pattern worldwide.
In 2000, the company formed an alliance with the French luxury goods empire of LVMH Moët Hennessy Group, which bought 67% of the Pucci Empire, and Laudomia became the company’s image director, bringing on major fashion designers such as Christian Lacroix and Peter Dundas to continue producing the elegant and sophisticated aesthetic that was the Pucci signature. With the backing of LVMH, the company has expanded rapidly, building a worldwide store network and global fan base, and as the brand faces more changes in creative direction, we exclusively talk to Laudomia about standing at the helm of such a storied brand.
‘He was a minimalist before minimalism, a jet-setter before jets were flying, a scientist before fabric technology became a discipline, provocative in his modernity and sartorial daring. For him prints were rhythm and movement, and in prints he expressed a message of contagious happiness.’ – Laudomia Pucci, speaking of her father and brand founder, Emilio Pucci.
Your father, Emilio Pucci, was one of the most remarkable designers of his time. What was it like growing up as his daughter?
This is a wonderful question, however when you are growing up whatever surrounds you appears normal. For me to grow up with my father having models around the house, who were actually photographed on the roof next to my playroom, in incredible clothes and hairdos, as well as having Asian, and coloured and blonde models was totally normal! To know that we had fashion shows in the house and that I could hear clapping from two floors lower was normal, as it was also normal that he would show me his sketches and his drawings. We shared his contagious enthusiasm for his job!
What is your first memory of fashion?
I am not sure, probably going to my father’s office and seeing the Christmas tree.
Tell us about when you first joined the family business?
My father started telling me I should help him when I was 14. I kind of dreaded the idea, and it was not until after my University studies in Economics and Politics that I joined the family business. It was sort of what I was expected to do. I would not have minded entering politics, although fashion was probably a safer choice!
How much do you feel the fashion world has changed since your father founded the company, and how do you think he would feel about the direction which the brand has taken?
I joined Pucci in 1985, over 30 years ago, and it feels like 3 centuries have passed. It was another and very different way of thinking then, with the fashion, markets, clients, supply chain, and made in Italy. Yet it was very special, with incredibly special people that I had the privilege of meeting or working with, from Hubert de Givenchy, who is as a second father to me, to Stanley Marcus, from Joyce in HK, just to name a few. I think we should never think how a founder of a historical brand would look at it today, just understand the message and interpret it in today’s or possibly tomorrow’s reality!
Do you face a lot of challenges personally when trying to stay true to how your father saw the future of Pucci?
Not really, I’m quite pleased with what we have done. It has been 25 years since he left us, and he would probably be very happy to see his name in new markets and young girls wearing his brand!
How do you feel the heritage of the brand sets Pucci apart from other luxury companies in the market?
This is a long story! Should I say it was made by a man that loved women and women’s bodies and movement, mixed with colours and an artistic dimension. What looked simple for my father is actually very complex.
Can you share with us what is the most important part of your brand DNA?
It’s a world of sophistication and joie de vivre, mixed together with the Italian touch!
What is key to combining the rich history of the brand with current trends?
You have to take a dose of the past and the present in a very clever way, not too much nor too little. This is the genius of creative talents!
You’ve always said that Pucci is about family. You sold a majority stake to LVMH in 2000, but the company continues to run with a strong sense of family. How important it that to you?
I think what is important is to have a personality of the company that carries that sense of continuity and uniqueness true to the brand. I hope that this is what I have been able to bring to the company.
How have things changed since the LVMH acquisition?
After 17 years a lot has changed, including myself and the world around us. We have moved into new markets, new generations, and new products too, which has all been very exciting!
Do you hope your children will join the family business one day?
I am not sure about my children, one is talented creatively, but hasn’t studied fashion, and I am not sure whether they will want to walk in their mother’s footsteps. However, I know that all three love the brand!
What’s the biggest challenge you’ve encountered in your professional life?
Probably it wasn’t an easy decision to sell majority, but Yves Carcelle had such a wonderful vision.
Where can we see the new direction of Pucci going, and what can we look forward to seeing with the changes in Creative Direction?
When we are ready we will let you know what the plans are!
Tell us about how Pucci’s signature prints are reinvented every season, whilst keeping fresh and remaining powerful?
Pucci prints are a signature as you rightly said, and you need to have a lot of knowledge and company culture to be able to cope with re-inventing the prints. There are always plenty of interesting challenges and new possibilities, but they are always very Pucci.
To you, what makes a timeless print?
Timeless prints are the result of an artistic approach. I believe my father was firstly an artist and then a designer.
Can you tell us about the new SS18 collection, what it embodies, and the inspiration behind it?
Spring Summer 2018 is quintessentially a Pucci moment, for example a pool party. It’s summer, it’s beautiful girls, it’s chrome, sophistication, playfulness and ‘joie de vivre’.
Do you have a key favourite piece from the collection?
I think the twill ‘Ama’ print chemisier dress, the palazzo trousers in ‘Nisida’ print, or the mirror beaded mini dress and skirt.
Can you tell us about the new Dubai capsule collection that has been created?
We thought of creating this exclusive capsule collection with an oriental inspired print for a very important market like Dubai. We are very excited to turn our creative eye to the Middle East with a selection of essential resort pieces. A one of a kind Pucci print which combines oriental references with Mediterranean mosaics and graphics in different hues of blue which remind me of the beautiful Dubai coastline.
What are your thoughts on the fashion in the Middle East?
It is a great market with great women, and is very feminine and fashion savvy. It’s a joy to meet Middle Eastern women during my visits to the stores or when I travel to the Middle East.
What will you be wearing for Christmas Day and New Year’s Eve?
I haven’t thought about this yet, but since I will be in the warm weather of the Philippines, I will probably wear a piece from the SS18 collection in coral or blue.
What is on your Christmas gift wish list?
To have all my family healthy and with me, and my girls in their new Pucci outfits.
Can you share what makes Christmas a special time of year for you?
Family and the sun, as I almost always spend it in the Philippines.
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