Moroccan-French designer Selma Benomar instantly caused a stir in the modest fashion industry thanks to her unique twist on the traditional kaftan.
Selma Benomar
The designer, who now runs her namesake brand from Dubai, prides herself on taking Moroccan heritage styles and giving them a modern twist to appeal to today’s women, while remaining modest and elegant.
Each year, the month of Ramadan is a key moment for the brand, and this year is no different as Benomar prepares to launch the Marrakech Twilight collection for 2024. The collection is inspired by the Moroccan city of Marrakech and captures its vibrancy and majestic architecture. The collection features belted kaftans, two-piece suits and flowing evening dresses, decorated with embroideries and iridescent details. Here, we find out more about the collection and Benomar’s commitment to reinventing the traditional kaftan.
Tell us about your Ramadan collection – the colours, the silhouette, the inspiration etc.
This Ramadan collection is called Marrakech Twilight because it is very much inspired by the red city of Marrakech and the changing of colours throughout the day. I have selected a symphony of shades that represent the city – blue, red, orange, bronze – there are also pastel tones in green and pink that reflect the old souk of the city. A variety of colours that all represent a space in the city.
Regarding the fabrics, I worked a lot with satin duchesse, which gives a very nice silhouette without being too heavy. It has a very nice shine. I also worked with linen for the casual designs, as well as pure silk, chiffon and crepe – mainly fabrics that are very flowy and light. When I’m selecting fabrics, I always keep in mind that this collection is mainly for women in the GCC and the Arab world and in March, we are still very much in the warmth, so I want the fabrics to be light, flowy and comfortable for women to wear in the weather conditions of the region.
Why was it important for you to create a Ramadan collection?
Ramadan is one of the key seasons for my brand. It is a period that represents modesty, spirituality, and the joy of coming together, and I think my designs also represent all of these things. I design pieces that can be worn for special occasions, and so mirroring these values of modesty and elegance in my designs is what my brand is about.
Do you feel all women are looking more for comfort and modest styles in their clothing choices?
I do believe that there has been a shift in women’s desires and their behaviour in terms of their clothing choices. I believe that it is deeper than just a trend, and it comes from a deeper awareness of respect for oneself and cultural roots. I know that today, women are more conscious, and they want to own their own decisions in terms of what they want to wear and how they want to be presented to the world. They are not only thinking about wearing something attractive and beautiful, but they also care a lot about being comfortable in what they wear and wearing versatile pieces, catering to their multifaceted lives. I think throughout the last few years, women feel they don’t want to be following something imposed on them by the fashion world; on the contrary, they want to impose on the fashion world what it is they want. I am very honoured to be able to contribute to this with my own touch of dressing women in g a very elegant, comfortable, but at the same time modest way.
Who is the woman you design for?
I design for the modern woman of the actual world who is culturally conscious and is proud of her roots, heritage and culture and she doesn’t want to compromise on that. She wants to be modern and wear clothing that is relevant, but at the same time, have that connection to her heritage and be proud to show it through the way she dresses.
How does your heritage and background inspire you as a designer?
My entire brand is really about my background and my cultural heritage, and I think the idea of building my brand came from a desire to honour my culture. I come from Morrocco, where I was born and raised before moving to France and then moving to the GCC, and I do believe that we can always have a bridge between cultures, and we can create something that’s inspired by heritage with a touch of modernity. I have always believed that in order to keep your heritage alive in today’s world, there has to be a touch of modernity. This is how we can keep it relevant for future generations.
What else are you currently working on?
Our two main seasons are Ramadan and Bridal, and we have started working on the bridal collection, which will launch later this year. With bridal, I always design pieces for brides who like to wear something that represents their roots and their Arabic heritage. There will be approximately 15 designs that can be worn for various events across the wedding period. We are still working on them, so I can’t say too much more on that for now.
What’s the biggest challenge you face as a designer today?
As a designer, I think the biggest challenge I face, and I believe many designers face, is how to keep a balance in a very changing fashion world. The fashion scene is fast-moving and very challenging; there are a lot of new trends coming in all the time. So the challenge is knowing how to keep your brand identity and remain committed to your creative philosophy while keeping up with changes in trends and customer behaviour. For me and my brand it is even more challenging because I must take into consideration that I am working on heritage pieces which have specific guidelines. So, I have to make it modern to follow customer behaviour and fashion trends but keep the spirit of heritage alive and not make the designs too modern. It is about finding this balance, and that is one of the most challenging parts for me, but it is a very interesting challenge that I enjoy as it makes me more creative.
What would you still like to achieve with the brand?
There is something that is very close to my heart that I would like to achieve next. If you look at Moroccan heritage, it’s not only about clothing. It’s also about architecture and lifestyle products, and I would like to explore this category further. I believe it needs to be addressed in terms of making things very modern but keeping the Moroccan touch. So I would like to explore that further into homeware and lifestyle pieces inspired by the rich Moroccan architecture but present it in a very modern way.
This month, we celebrate International Women’s Day – who is a woman who has inspired you?
I get inspiration from a lot of women, mainly the women in my family – my mother and my grandmother – their elegance, their strong personalities, their advice and how they have inspired me a lot in what I am today.
What advice would you give to aspiring designers?
The most precious advice I can give is to be patient and resilient because it’s not only about having talent and being creative; it’s a lot more about commitment and hard work, and nothing comes quickly and easily if you want to build a brand for the long term. You have to be patient, work hard for it, and not expect a quick success.
What’s a piece of advice that you would give to your younger self?
Follow your intuition because whenever you do it will be the right thing to do. Believe in what you think you can achieve.
What is the professional motto you live by?
Honour heritage and embrace modernity.
What else is in the pipeline for you this year?
The Ramadan collection is available now. I will also be working on a capsule collection of beach kaftans for summer, and of course, the bridal collection, which will come later in spring.
