Schiaparelli Opens Couture Week With An Outstanding Surreal-Inspired Collection

Emma Hodgson   |   22-01-2024

Jennifer Lopez and Zendaya were both in the FROW at the spectacular Schiaparelli show, which opened Fall Winter 24/25 Couture Week this morning, where creative director Daniel Roseberry put forward a smart, Surrealism-filled theatrical collection for the new season. 

His latest work confidently showcased the spirit of Schiaparelli which the house’s founder, Elsa, established nearly 100 years ago at the height of the Roaring Twenties. 

However, this collection looked to the future of Surrealist design, as much as to its epic history. There were metallic cyber-styled designs, a robot child carried on the catwalk and playful, futuristic shapes. 

Schiaparelli is most at home in the theatre of Couture Week, and this collection rooted home that point. Roseberry arguably reached a new creative high with this collection. 

Key looks from the collection

Look 9 (above)

A “creature” dress with exaggeratedly rounded shoulders and a slit front, embellished with nude petal embroidery with a “scale” effect, some encrusted with tonal micro-sequins. Matching balaclava with hand-painted black resin false eyelashes and hair. Nude leather signature Toes pumps.

Look 6

Off-white tank top in ribbed jersey worn over a matching corset. “Inside-out” pants embellished with tonal horsehair appliqué stripes, extra-large pockets and flipped epaulettes in tonal white silk faille. Resin and rhinestone choker necklace inspired by an electronic circuit and matching earring. Crocodile-effect embossed patent white leather cowboy boots with inlay of a moulded signature Ear covered with rhinestone piercings.

Look 14

Bi-material jacket in denim and white leather with exaggeratedly rounded shoulders featuring a hand-painted corset motif on the front and embroidered with tonal synthetic thread faux horse braids arranged in a geometric pattern. Matching white denim pants entirely embroidered with faux horse braids in tonal synthetic threads. Retro-inspired Swarovski crystal and baguette earrings. Cowboy-inspired mules in black leather, embellished with a metal toe cap and signature “S”-shaped heels.

Look 18 

Extreme plastron with vertiginous neckline in butter satin, embellished with embroidery featuring the Maison’s codes in rhinestones, gold lurex thread and tonal sequins, and contrasting black lining. “Strawberry” volume skirt twisted in matching butter duchesse silk satin. Swarovski crystal choker necklace and earrings featuring the Maison’s signature keyhole. Black leather cowboy-inspired mules embellished with a metal toe cap and signature “S”-shaped heels.

Look 7 

Robot dress enhanced with exaggeratedly rounded shoulders entirely embroidered with Swarovski crystal jewels and electronic chips in silver and green. Vintage-inspired curved bracelet in acrylic and Swarovski crystals and matching minaudière with signature Keyhole detail at the ends. Black leather cowboy-inspired mules embellished with a metal toe cap and signature “S”-shaped heels.

Look 1

Elsa Schiaparelli-inspired dress in shiny black vinyl enhanced with a white crochet collar in contrasting silk thread, decorated with a Swarovski crystal brooch and tonal topstitching. Black leather cowboy-inspired mules embellished with a metal toe cap and signature “S”-shaped heels.

Look 13

An ensemble consisting of a top mounted on a metal structure entirely covered with threads and hand-embroidered in guipure style, and a matching, entirely embroidered pencil skirt. The guipure takes up the Maison’s signature codes such as the Padlock, Mouth, Keyhole etc… Swarovski crystal wire earrings topped with pearls. Matching spiral bracelet and sphere ring with retro-inspired rhinestone pavé. Black leather cowboy-inspired mules with metal toe cap and signature S-shaped heels.

Look 24

Column dress in black stretch velvet with an openwork bow-shaped bra at the top. Alien spiral earrings in silver-plated metal topped with pearls.

Look 22

Dress with exaggeratedly rounded shoulders inspired by the iconic skeleton dress imagined by Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dali in 1936, entirely embroidered in blush chenille velvet bangs and embellished with trompe l’œil tonal padded bones. Hybrid geometric earrings with turtle motif enhanced with Swarovski crystals.

Look 32

Asymmetrical dress with unstructured collar and vertiginous neckline, slit at the back entirely embroidered with silver sequins, crystals, rhinestones and tassels for a “vibrating” effect. Matching sphere ring with retro-inspired Swarovski crystal pavé. Black leather cowboy-inspired mules embellished with a metal toe cap and signature “S”-shaped heels.