Schiaparelli opened the latest edition of Paris Haute Couture Week today with a show that highlighted the close connection between the worlds of fashion and art.
The Fall Winter 2023-24 collection by Daniel Roseberry once again highlights the brand’s firm position as an inspirational leader in the world of Haute Couture, with iconic looks that set the tone for a season of glamour and elevated chicness.
Architectural silhouettes, extreme embellishments and a fascination with the human body were once again at the forefront of Roseberry’s designs, as well as the use of exceptional materials and a sense of freedom and fluidity.
Roseberry was inspired by a quote by American philosopher and author Ralph Waldo Emerson that read: “Every spirit builds itself a house; and beyond its house, a world; and beyond its world a heaven. Know then, that the world exists for you: build, therefore, your own world.”
Immersing the audience into the world of Schiaparelli, Roseberry offered a more “organic, more sensual and more impromptu” collection than last season, finding freedom in separates such as a white shirt, pants, puffer coats and knitwear basics. “I wanted to make an impossible wardrobe – impossible not because it’s not wearable, but because it’s so extraordinary, a Surrealist’s interpretation of a woman’s essential closet.” Said Roseberry in the show notes.
The idea of surrealism was reflected by art pieces presented around the show space, once again highlighting the brand’s close connection to the art world. Each piece in this collection is somehow inspired by an artist – from a woman’s body with brushwork inspired by Lucian Freud, to mirrored mosaic pieces inspired by the work of sculptor Jack Whitten, as well as a leather cigarette box that trims a ball gown skirt is a homage to Sarah Lucas, and the deep blue pebble-like beads and powder that cover a multitude of surfaces are a nod to Yves Klein.
Surrealist artist Salvador Dali is also a key inspiration for this collection. His sunrises give birth to a multitude of vibrant colour degradé’s, as well as Matisse and Lucian Freud, whose homes and residences inspired various elements of the collection, including the dramatic chaos of painterly brushwork on an oversized white laminated puffer. “This collection has been so heavily inspired by the agony and ecstasy of creation—but still offers clothes for a woman to love for a lifetime.” Said Roseberry.
In accessories, the new Schiap bag is set to be a season icon, presented in a hand-painted and alligator version, as well as being decorated with wooden beads of the signature ‘trapunto’ technique echoed in white strands of plaster beads and bugle beaded measuring tapes.
The toe shoes return this season, this time with a “barely-there” appearance, with the Maison’s signature measuring tape running up the bag of the leg.
Again, art is a huge influence in jewellery. Giacometti’s monumental sculptures are reinterpreted here as skinny drops of stone-capped gold, and Claude Lalanne’s beloved mouldings inspired massive brooches and cuffs. There are also wooden jewels which marks a first for the maison.
“Going into the unknown, when creative expression and fame feels available to any and all, at least for a moment, we wonder: What can break through? For our Maison, it is the power of design, the power of our artisans, and the power of the human hand at work.” Roseberry finished.
