Chaumet has introduced its new high jewellery collection; Perspectives de Chaumet.
Architecture has been a source of inspiration to the House for 240 years and it returns again to inspire the Perspectives De Chaumet collection.
This theme is reinterpreted again for 2020 with a contemporary twist on the brand’s heritage and an innovative approach to jewellery making.
Following the Trésors d´Ailleurs rings, unveiled in early 2020 in conjunction with the reopening of 12 Vendôme on the Maison’s 240th anniversary, Perspectives de Chaumet extends this precious idea of architecture, in six aesthetics that form a balance between heritage and modernity.
The first category; “Skyline” evokes the image of a graphic horizon, and reinvents the iconic architecture of contemporary cities. Combining strong volumes with transparent effects, prominent angles with a harmony of curves, these jewel buildings are dedicated to women who assert the power of their femininity.
Taking inspiration from the textures and characteristics of creations from the 1970s, every surface of yellow gold is worked, whether polished, open-worked, engraved or hammered. An exceptional 16.06-carat Colombian emerald is gracefully set on a cascading necklace, revealing an exquisite combination of colours.
It also enhances a very rare 7.34-carat, D colour, FL, type IIa certified diamond. Lastly, a two-part sculptural ring offers an unprecedented variation on the Chaumet tradition of transformable jewels.
The second story in the collection is a tribute to Italian Renaissance polychromatic domes open to the sky. These pieces reimagine the Maison’s characteristic art of colour.
Whether a bewitchingly fiery Australian opal or softly-hued angel skin coral, each centre stone has been carefully selected for its particularly evocative colours, as if to draw the gaze to a dreamlike horizon. The circles of gems that surround each central cabochon underlines its subtlety in an abundance of shades and cuts. With lapis lazuli beads, square-cut diamonds, cabochon sapphires, tsavorite garnets, mandarin garnets, baguette-cut aquamarines, the harmonious or contrasting effects evoke the sweetness of the dawn, the depth of a night sky or the flaming palette of sunset.
Inspired by this dialogue with the sky, two Jumping Hours Creative Complication watches complete this offering. On the dial, a transparent rock crystal canopy reveals a mother-of-pearl background, surrounded by a circle of lapis lazuli or turquoise marquetry.
Recalling the stone latticework and mashrabiyas of contemporary architecture, with its white gold interlacing Lacis delineates symmetrical and delicate jewellery while also suggesting maze of narrow streets.
This modern reinterpretation of diamond mesh, a historic Chaumet signature, is especially striking in the form of a light tiara, a secret watch, and rings and bracelets with airy volumes.
In each piece, a subtle interplay of light and transparency is orchestrated by the crossing of fils couteau mountings. A21.93-carat Mozambique rubellite stands out in bold and saturated pink on a spectacular necklace.
This design can be combined with earrings, a ring and a bracelet set with perfectly matched rubellites. Or mixed with pieces in which intensely yellow diamonds appear to distort the jewel’s geometric structure, creating hypnotic kinetic effects.
Inspired by deconstructivist architecture, Ondulation breaks free from the laws of perspective to celebrate the art of movement and the freedom to create. It once again celebrates the Chaumet jewellery of the 1970s, featuring yellow gold worked in unique textures and interplays of feminine curves.
Yellow gold is shaped in volume like a second-skin mesh. The effect is one of surprise, alternating between full and fluid, it combines presence and lightness in a necklace that hugs the contours of the neck. An unusual bluish-green 30.22-carat tourmaline contrasts with the warm golden tones.
Elsewhere, yellow sapphires on a cuff bracelet and a jewel watch with a trompe l’oeil dial, represent an example of historical Chaumet virtuosity.
With layerings of diamonds and sapphires, Mirage is an ode to constantly moving structures. As the centrepiece a tiara revisits the Maison’s tradition of transformable jewels. Composed of two superimposed sections that can be worn individually or combined, one featuring a 5.07-carat pear-cut E colour VVS2 diamond and the other in sapphires, this creation offers three options of wearing. Also embracing illusionary effects, the dial of a secret watch is hidden beneath a pavé bracelet: a time-telling jewel in tribute to historic Chaumet creations.
Using a motif that has long been present in the heritage of Chaumet, an asymmetrical toi et moi ring suggests the union of two people. Coordinating with the other Mirage creations, these pieces spark a dialogue between diamond and sapphire, in homage to the gems on the engagement ring offered by Napoléon to Joséphine, the Maison’s first major client.
Inspired by the search for abstract beauty Labyrinthe sees Right angles and circles, harmonious contrasts of black onyx and colour, spacing and layering worn together in the manner of Russian constructivism or Italian futurism. Stones are sprinkled across the jewels with unexpected grace. Its exploration of the art of the line offers a unique way to adorn an assertive femininity, echoing the bold volumes of Chaumet jewellery from the first decades of the 20th century.
At the heart of the precious Labyrinthe mazes, you’ll find exquisite centre stones. the deep pink of tourmalines, the velvety green of Zambian emeralds, the purity of diamonds, the smoothness of white, golden, lustrous pink or black pearls.
The rich and varied nuances of sapphires: from a vivid blue Burmese sapphire on a ring and earrings matched with a pendant set with a 34.30-carat oval sapphire, to a pinkish-orange Ceylon padparadscha sapphire, pink Madagascar sapphires, or shades that appear to change in the light from bold to pinkish-violet. Cut specifically for each piece, precious or ornamental stones weave around these centre stones, following and highlighting their contours in an interplay of textures, heights and volumes.
The high jewellery collection is now available.