For many years, Pierpaolo Piccioli has produced some of fashion’s most extraordinary work, first in partnership with Maria Grazia Chiuri and now, on his own. This season, Piccioli’s spring collection was elevated to out-of-this world magnificent, as he transferred knowledge and values through time.
Behind each haute couture gown there are personalities and not just ‘small hands’, something which was the focus of this collection. Piccioli made a point of naming each look after its maker, honouring the craftsmanship behind the creation.
Volume was key, with oversized balloons of fabric in vibrant yellows, blues and purples opening the show. Belted with tight ribbons and draping bows, sophisticated jackets with partially pleated hems set a luxurious tone from the off. Oversized ruffles were paired with paper-bag trousers surrounding the models with excess fabric, yet tailored to emphasise the female form, with some looks styled with avant-garde feathered headpieces designed by Philip Treacy.
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s choice in emphasising simplicity is obvious, as the choices of colour-blocking garments demands focus to shift to the masterfully draped garment cuts. A sharp influx of minimal garments rapidly changed direction to over-the-top ruffles and scallop hemlines, which reflected the regal environment. There was extravagant tulle in tones to match the model’s skin, and with volume still the focus, floor length gowns captured the sense and magic of haute couture.