From spa facilities to fine dining, inside the tranquil Mandarin Oriental Paris hotel hidden within the hustle and bustle of the French capital.

Situated in one of Paris’s most sought after locations on rue Saint-Honoré, just steps from Place Vendôme, Mandarin Oriental Paris has combined the old with the new inside a historic 1930s Art-Deco inspired building that is given a new lease of life with modern and unique interiors.

Stepping inside this hotel you feel style and elegance oozing from the walls. The square courtyard visible from the lobby, brings to life the property that, despite its size has an authentic boutique feel.

A stone’s throw away from Garnier Opera, Tuileries Gardens, the Louvre and much more, the location couldn’t be better if you are looking for a walking tour of the city. Cut out the busy traffic and hectic streets and meander your way through quaint passages and historical squares.

Rooms and Suites

Mandarin Oriental, Paris offers 138 luxurious rooms and suites that are among the most spacious in Paris. Forty suites look onto the hotel’s indoor courtyard and landscaped garden, while others look onto the rue Saint-Honoré. Interior designer Sybille de Margerie has tried to capture the essence of Paris in his designs, giving the rooms quintessential haute couture style featuring soothing yet striking colours, elegance, understated lines and opulent materials.

The bathroom, in imagined in glass, wood, white marble and mosaic. Luxury silk cushions, embroidered taffeta and shades of magenta, orange and plum give the classic style and oriental twist.

The hotel’s suites range from the Duplex Suites, a two-floor residence with views over the city’s rooftops. The Panoramic suits, as the name suggests benefit from views across the city, courtesy of an outside dining area with the feel of a private apartment.

The Couture Suites feature interiors inspired by fashion couturiers. The spacious suites have space for entertaining and relaxing with a private dining area, kitchenette and separate powder room. The Suite Royale Orientale is the largest of the hotel’s rooms. The interiors combine the West and East with a journey from Paris to The Orient. The suite now has a stunning 75-metre private terrace perfect for dining, sun-lounging and relaxing.

Restaurants and Dining

Mandarin Oriental, Paris houses Sur Mesure a Michelin star restaurant under the lead of Executive Chef and Director of Food and Beverage Thierry Marx. A cosy cocoon of white space that is a tranquil oasis away from the hustle and bustle of the city, the restaurant has received numerous awards since its opening.

The menu pays particular attention to shapes and colours, textures and temperatures to create truly unique and innovative dishes. The restaurant offers a choice of menus comprised from 4 to 7 dishes for lunch and from 6 to 8 dishes for dinner to choose from, as both fancy and appetite inspire.

Camélia is a light-filled space, intended as a continuation of the indoor landscaped garden. The restaurant features a simple menu that focuses on individual ingredients used in French cuisine but is also influenced by Chef Marx’s knowledge of the culinary traditions of Japan. For more casual dining visit L’Honoré or The Cake Shop, and Bar 8 for an after-dinner drink.

Spa and Wellness

If you need time to unwind and get away from it all, the Spa at Mandarin Oriental, Paris offers a holistic experience to promote complete mind-body harmony. The huge spa is one of the largest in the city and comprises of a 14-metre indoor pool and seven private spa suites. The interiors were imagined by Sybille de Margerie. The white and carmine glass mosaic floor is studded with butterflies in silver leaf, while the walls are composed of Origami-fashion stylised flowers.

The spa offers a selection of relaxing and results-driven treatments including the Mandarin Oriental Group’s signature therapies. Developed in consultation with specialists in traditional Chinese medicine and master aromatherapists, they consist of a relaxing body massage ritual that combines the powerful effects of oriental meridian massage with the therapeutic benefits of custom-blended essential oils, created for Mandarin Oriental. The Spa also encompasses beauty and features an exclusive collection of exceptional facial therapies by Guerlain.

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We talk to Sheikha Hind bint Majed Al Qasimi, founder of locally based brand, Designed By Hind.

Sheikha Hind Bint Majed Al Qasimi, founder of Designed by Hind was inspired by the beauty of her home country of the UAE. With a love for pottery since she was a child, she eventually decided to turn her passion into a business and founded Designed by Hind in 2016. The Sharjah based homeware brand produces pottery that combines traditional Emirati crafts with contemporary designs and techniques.

Among the recent collections is ‘Sarood,’ a contemporary take on the braided palm hair mat that was traditionally used in Oriental culture for meal time gatherings. The pieces were developed with palm matting acting as the initial cast for the mould, from which each delicate ceramic ‘sarood,’ or plate was created. Using this methodology ensured that the imprints of the original handmade weave patterns and slight imperfections were still central to the design.

Here, we discuss with Al Qasimi the inspiration behind her designs and how she is encouraging women in the UAE to be empowered.

What can you tell us about your designs? 

Whenever I try to describe what I do, I get very poetic and emotional. What I do is merely an extension of who I am and mostly how I perceive myself in a given moment. If I’m determined, my work will be reflecting that, if I’m in love with my craft, my work will give that away.

But there is a short anecdote on how I got started and fell in love with porcelain. Since I was young, I felt quite fascinated by this ceramic and I distinctly remember when I was 13, I had gifted a beautiful cup and saucer to my mother on the occasion of Mother’s day. I always liked the texture and the colour of porcelain, the myriad designs, this vitrified pottery was more than a passing interest and I knew someday it’ll be a vocation to develop my own creation.

The main concept behind my work is the fusing together of traditional Emirati elements and modern design, which I try to marry and blend into a piece which has the best of both worlds. With the right treatment and vision, the two aspects complement the final product.

How have you combined traditional crafts with modern techniques? 

My formative years were spent in such a wonderful, heritage culture, it was natural for me to appreciate traditional crafts and techniques, but then having studied Fine Arts at Sharjah University, I recognised the beauty of more contemporary concepts as well.

The qualities of each period are represented through distinct textures on the vases that I worked on in the “Post Craft” project – a raw and earthy coral effect symbolises the time before oil was discovered, while a luxurious gold foil façade bears testimony to the wealth and prosperity that came with oil. The post-oil world geared by technology and sustainability is reflected in the product’s glossy metallic look. Each piece of work has journeyed through time and has a story to tell.

What inspired you to create this concept and why pottery?

I got so absorbed in this ceramic that it makes me perpetually curious. I always look for creativity and this craft is one of my childhood hobbies which means a lot to me and reminds me of my mother. So, I began with early sketches on porcelain and gave the first pieces (the Tumenah collection) to my friends and family, and after receiving positive feedback from them I grew more confident and started my business. That was the beginning of Designed by Hind. I do believe that craft should come before quantity, therefore, pottery has always fascinated me.

I am inspired by the nature and traditions of our region and the heritage crafts of our culture. Through the Designed by Hind collections, I want to tell a story about our history, our region and our people. My fundamental inspiration comes from a symbolic transition of ideas into realities. There is so much left to discover, it overwhelms me just to think about it! I’m discovering it piece by piece, each time I try something for the first time and the results always lead me to somewhere new.

Why do you think it’s important to celebrate traditional UAE handicrafts in today’s industry? 

Every country is proud of its traditional handcraft, the UAE has much cultural history that must be celebrated. In Sharjah, there are numerous pioneering initiatives that involve women in artistic and creative fields. Initiatives like Irthi Contemporary Crafts Council help to empower those working both in the traditional and contemporary crafts sectors. These creative works also help to develop a fresh narrative using the UAE’s traditional crafts.

Therefore, I feel we should increasingly try to reach out and collaborate with the global markets to uphold the Emirati culture with a contemporary twist.

Some of the proceeds of your pieces are donated to the Bidwa Social Development Programme – how is this project close to your heart? 

It means a lot to me. The Bidwa Social Development Programme is a part of Irthi Contemporary Crafts Council and is an integral platform to present the region’s craft making skills to communities across Sharjah. We are trying to introduce both children and adults to this cultural legacy and illustrate the crafts within a modern context and its potential as a viable business sector.

Are there plans to expand further globally? 

I’m always in favour of expansion. Every year, I push my creativity further and I genuinely believe that there is no end to the goals that you can set for yourself. I try to constantly refine and restyle different aspects of my work in order to maintain a fresh and challenging new look. I also want more of my collections to reflect our heritage that can be spread across the globe.

What trends are you particularly interested in homewares?

Off-the-beaten-path examples of mid-century designs particularly interest me. But within homewares, I would say a luxurious collection of tableware is my favourite. It can include anything from cutlery, glassware, serving dishes to other useful items. Sometimes, I tell myself if this piece that I am creating survives the journey ahead and makes it to the final object, someone will be using my craft to eat their meals on or drink their tea from! Therefore, the quintessentially English pastime of afternoon tea is celebrated with Designed by Hind’s Bidwa Tea Set.

The Middle East is also where multiple influences meet to create colourful styles of art and interior décor. The region is known to be the cradle of civilisation. So, inspired by the patterns created by the Emirati art of ‘Talli’ and its woven braids, the set offers a refreshing new Emirati-inspired take on a traditional British custom. My brand showcases the most local traditional crafts, reintroducing them in a contemporary manner that resonates to the modern context we live in today. We strive to explore and develop a dialogue between designer and craftsmanship.

Has your work at Sharjah Business Women’s Council help you grow as a person and what more do you think needs to be done in the UAE to empower women?

I extend my gratefulness to the holistic vision that the UAE leaders possess. We see tremendous empowerment of women within the workforce to the point where there is equality in many key aspects. Women have been elevated in areas like entrepreneurship and industry to government, politics and legislation.

As a member and now Chairperson of the Sharjah Women’s Business Council, I have witnessed continuous support from our leaders to equip new and established female entrepreneurs with cutting-edge business skills. The council always tries to offer windows of business opportunities for the women in the UAE. I have also made it a personal mission to show that there are no limits to success.

As far as further empowerment is concerned, the Council tries to offer them with best practices, specialised training, financial support and administrative expertise so that they can establish themselves as successful entrepreneurs in various sectors of the economy.

What can you share with the readers about business strategies?

When it comes to strategizing your business concept, you have to perpetually strive for distinction. You need to try and optimize the use of different distribution and communications channels with a holistic go-to-market strategy. Demand identification and proper engagement with clients is key to establishing credibility and brand value in the market and outperforming your counterparts.

In addition, I feel diversity is a business imperative and you have to try and constantly reinvent and reorient yourself. I think where things have been done well, we just need to make sure they are done better. Where there are gaps, I would like to close those gaps.

What is the motto that you live by?

Work is sometimes pleasant, rewarding and empowering but it can also be challenging at times. That is when you need to turn to yourself the most. I would say that the greatest asset of all is to have self-belief and willpower. When you have confidence in your own abilities and ambitions, you have the power to determine your own path and chart your own destiny.

The outside world can be daunting at times but if you focus on your ultimate goals and have the support of those close to you, there is no reason why one cannot succeed. I think dreams shape from experiencing something subliminal for the first time and then trying to make it a regular, in your life.

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Clinical Dietitian and Specialised Nutritionist Dana Al Hamwi talks exclusively to A&E Magazine about the hard work that goes into wellbeing, and exactly how she helps people in the region change their lives through food.

Clinical Dietitian Dana Al Hamwi and Specialised Nutritionist is changing the lives of people in the region by creating healthy and sustainable lifestyle and eating plans. Al Hamwi received her Doctorate in Medicine and earned a Master’s degree specialising in Human Nutrition. She studied and worked in the UK before decided to set up her own practice in the UAE.

You only need to take a look at Al Hamwi’s Instagram account to appreciate the stories of success she has achieved with her patients. Whether it’s weight loss, fitness or just a generally healthier lifestyle her patients are looking for, Al Hamwi tailor-makes a nutritional solution the will suit the individual lives of each and every one of her clients. This can include anything from helping those who have intolerances to certain foods to assisting those that are addicted to junk food to work it into their diet in a much healthier way.

Al Hamwi believes that her approach to dieting and nutrition is so successful because of her medical background. As a qualified doctor, she offers solutions that are scientifically proven to work and are a safe and approachable alternative from FAD and crash diets. Here we discuss the secrets to her success and what it is clients are looking for when they come to visit her.

What are the common problems you see at your clinic?

People that come to me want to lose weight quickly in a very short period of time without losing the opportunity of attending every buffet invitation, so it’s a very big struggle! However, I can help them with this because I customise diets for each individual patient.

Depending on your lifestyle, eating habits, work schedule, and taking into consideration that you are going to social events. This way I can manage the plan and I can give the patient hints on how to act if they are going out for dinner for example. I help them with healthy recipes for modern food even with fast food. Some people will come to me and have a customised diet with pizza and burgers which is more attractive, it’s a lifestyle so you have to enjoy it, it’s not something you do for a specific period of time.

What are the secrets to maintaining your diet goals?

The secret is, first of all, a food diary. Writing down everything you eat helps to control your eating habits. Some clients will come to me and say “I don’t want to write, I’m too lazy” so I create a mobile application in which they can take a picture of whatever they eat and then I can see and follow their food diary and maybe observe them and give my tips.

It’s not an easy mission, but if you get used to a healthy lifestyle, you eat everything, you are watching your portions, you are moving like regular physical activities and you’re sleeping well, it will help big time.

What do you consider your biggest career success to date?

My biggest success is that I’m hearing my name everywhere. Everywhere I go – social events, even in my home country. Yesterday I met a patient who told me about an experience she has at The Four Seasons Hotel. She said that I the chef there lost 35kg with me. I have online patients. I’m so proud, I’m so happy and what makes me maybe more specific than other dietitians is that I’m a medical doctor so people come to me because I am into clinic mode.

What has been the biggest challenge?

There was a big challenge in my work. Just after I started my clinic here in Dubai I had a big accident and broke my leg so I had to stay in the wheelchair for three months and it was horrible. I had to meet my patients in a wheelchair showing the positivity, showing that I’m smiling and overcome my pain. This was the biggest challenge.

But nowadays when you have a goal and you believe in it, you can achieve it. I have so many challenges, every day but when you are believing in whatever you are doing and you are honest in doing it then you can overcome anything. And you know, competition is very high in GCC so if I don’t develop myself or study the market and see exactly my patients need, I will not be successful.

What’s is the motto you live by professionally?

Honesty and hard work, in my opinion, are the only keys to being successful.

Who has influenced you the most?

My dad. He was my number one and inspired me with his hard work and with his honesty, his risk-taking and his ambitions. So I learnt many things from him.

What do you still want to achieve? 

Everybody dreams to achieve many things. Now my dream is that I want to see my clinic branch in every capital, I have the biggest wellness centre in the world that covers not only diet but stress management, meditation, exercise, all of these together.

If you could give your younger self one piece of advice, what would it be?

Think carefully and plan before making any decision. And not to rely on the heart all the time, to be logical and realistic sometimes.

What would you tell yourself 10 years from now? 

Slow down, calm down, stop putting stress on yourself and relax. Everything will happen for a reason. Keep going and don’t put stress on yourself.

Complete this sentence: I’m happy when…

My family and my team members are happy and healthy. Whenever I see my patients happy and satisfied with what they achieved I’m happy, and I’m also happy when I hear my name spreading in a positive way.

What do you say ‘no’ to?

Cheating and dishonesty are the worst things in my opinion.

What book are you reading at the moment?

I’m reading The Power of Positive Thinking. I like these kinds of books because they give me a way to think in a positive way and when you read these things it gives you a power specifically at work and even with your relations with people and patients.

How do you want the world to remember you?

Look, I’m an honest person and I have a big passion for my work and to my career, I think it will make people remember. As well adding to it the huge number of success stories now that I had achieved over a long period of time, I think it will help.

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Elie Saab injected some elegance and glamour into Paris Fashion Week this afternoon with his autumn/winter 19 ready-to-wear collection. The Lebanese designer was true to form with a collection of chic day wear and striking evening pieces for the strong, elegant female. An eighties soundtrack makes the era of inspiration undeniable and influences of the decade can be seen throughout.

The show opened with perfectly formed jumper dresses, accentuated with ruffles and matching over the knee boots. Then came the prints and a slight new direction for the designer who is usually associated with one-colour ensembles. Three key prints featured hearts, abstract dinosaurs as well as a playful dog print that was emblazoned on dresses and in one case presented in sequins – quite an unexpected choice for the designer. The colour palette was rich and warm with tones ranging from deep burgundy red to rich sage green.

Then came the evening wear and the Elie Saab glamour we know and love. The same prints and colours were made into evening gowns and smart cigarette trousers and blazers. There were many one shoulder cutes as well as high necks and deep-V dresses. Gowns were finished with oversized bows (something that is quickly becoming a staple for the season), feather trims and neck-ties.

Long capes were paired with lace trousers and shirts, full sequin suits brought a modern edge to the elegance. The black dress had its place firmly cemented as a wardrobe staple with all shapes and styles from velvet cigarette trousers to full-skirted satin dresses finished with sequins, gold trim, feather details, and simple layering.

Accessories came in the form of over the knee boots, that were paired with almost every look as well as ankle boots and simple black sandals. The neck tie was also very prominent and cute heart shaped bags added a playful approach.  

Isabel Marant presented a chic collection in Paris this evening. Choosing function and purpose combined with chic Parisian style the label proved utility and military wear is the starting point of this year’s essential winter wardrobe.

Subtle layering, draped details and safari chic utility pants and shirts began the collection. The colour palette featured nude and khaki tones but the off splash of neon tones or multicolour print was applied to quilted fabrics and layered with soft neutral pieces. Shoulders were exaggerated suggesting a slight nod to the eighties decade and waists were cinched with chunky studded belts. The collection was all about textures, leather was paired with wool, drapes, ruffles, silks, cottons and suedes were all paired together in harmony.

When it came to accessories models wore multiple chunky rings, oversized boho-style earrings and Marant’s trademark slouchy boot which were either calf-length, knee-high of over the dee with a medium-height heel.

And it wasn’t all plain and simple. Somewhere in the middle prints took hold. Polka dots, animal print, florals and geometric prints added some fun and femininity to this collection. Towards the end of the show the eighties influence really became prominent. Shoulders were protruding and the classic eighties silhouette could be seen in force.

The model line-up included Gigi Hadid, and Kaia Gerber who have been working overtime these last few days but are always sure to pull in a crowd. There were also some menswear looks that seamlessly glided into the line-up with the same aesthetic. True to form this was a collection that was elegant but felt as though it was a little rough around the edges and that’s what we love about it.

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From the presenters handing out awards at the Oscars 2019 to the creatives winning them, this year’s Academy Awards was one of the most diverse yet. And that diversity was seen on the red carpet as well as the stage on February 24.

This year, actors such as Jennifer Hudson and directors like Nadine Labaki donned dresses and outfits by Middle Eastern designers as they graced the red carpet.

Here’s are just some of the incredible Middle Eastern fashion houses whose designs made it to Hollywood for the Oscars 2019.

Elie Saab 

Jennifer Hudson at Oscars 2019 in Elie Sab

Julia Roberts wore a fuschia gown by the Lebanese fashion designer as she presented the award for Best Picture. Nadine, who was nominated for Best Foreign Film, wore an Haute Couture, one-shouldered cream dress by the designer. Jennifer Hudson and Michelle Yeoh donned a gown by Elie Saab.

Reem Acra

Angela Bassett at Oscars 2019 in Reem Acra

Born in Beriut, this Lebanese fashion designer is clearly making waves on the fashion scene. At the 91st Academy Awards, stars such as Angela Bassett and Krysten Ritter wore Reem Acra. Krysten – who currently stars as the titular character in TV series Jessica Jones – even used the sheer and maroon lace dress to announce her pregnancy, as Acra’s design showcased her blossoming baby bump.

Zuhair Murad

Molly Sims at Oscars 2019 in Zuhair Murad

Molly Sims dazzled the red carpet this year in a floor-length dress by Zuhair Murad, who grew up in Baalbek, Lebanon. The metallic, sequin dressed with an open back caught the eyes of onlookers as she posed alongside husband Scott Stuber, an executive at Netflix.

Georges Chakra

Meagan Good at Oscars 2019 in Georges Chakra

Think Like A Man actress Megan Good sported another Lebanese designer. The undeniable talent looked elegant in a couture dress from Georges Chakra’s Spring Summer collection. The lilac, one-shouldered gown featured a thigh-high split.

READ: Best Dressed At The Oscars 2019 

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Dolce & Gabbana brought a theatrical element to Milan Fashion Week today (February 24).

Showcasing its Autumn/Winter 19 collection, the Italian fashion house employed an auctioneer figure to talk the audience through the lengthy show as the backdrop music flitted between romantic and theatrical.

All this was to set the tone for the garments inspired by Italian artists through the ages, from Sandro Botticelli to Leonardo Di Vinci and Michelangelo.

Dolce Gabbana Milan Fashion Week surrealist motif

This was most overly seen towards the second half of the runway show as collage dresses, tuxedos, skirts and so-on were updated with scenes from beloved surrealist sculptures and paintings. The aim, as announced, being to transform the wearer into an artist herself.

However, this was hinted on from the get-go with the narrator revealing the collection would capture the elegance of the female form that has been immortalised through such works of art.

But this was proceeded with the models taking to the catwalk in traditionally masculine shapes; structured shoulders, cigarette pants and monochrome shades made irony of the statement.

Dolce & Gabbana Milan Fashion Week AW19: Houndstooth and florals

Elsewhere, metallic leopard prints, bow accessories, oversized florals, houndstooth jackets and gem stone coloured dresses featured on D&G’s AW19 line.

READ: Men’s Fashion Week Fall 2019: Dolce & Gabbana

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Heidi Armstrong recent left her career in fashion buying to set up start up company Wear That. Wear That offers women styling solutions of looks that will really look good on them and encourage them to feel confident.

Today Heidi joins us for a Morning Coffee to talk about her new venture and what she plans to achieve with it.

Describe your morning routine.

I wake at 5am, check WhatsApp, Instagram and my emails, and then I usually try to do 10 minutes of meditation to set the tone for the day before I go out for a run, because I’m usually training for some crazy ultramarathon. Then I come back, usually start work at about 9am, and that’s on a perfect day. There are day’s I can sleep in and then go to work.

Tell us a little bit about your background and what inspired Wear That?

I come from a buying and product development background. I started in Australia and I worked from there to China, London, Paris, Italy and the Middle East and I noticed that it was the same issue of ‘I don’t know what to wear or what looks good on me’. So I created Wear That to solve this problem.

What do you hope to achieve with this platform?

I want to a build a platform for women that makes them feel amazing, so not only look amazing but feel amazing as that’s where the confidence comes from. Then of course I want to do something ‘small’ and have the biggest styling online platform in the world. I’m just going to go for it!

What do you consider your biggest career success to date?

Launching Wear That has been so exciting and rewarding and different, but all the things I’ve worked on in my career, the last 10 years I’ve worked as a fashion buyer, have led me to this. I identified trends, I worked with different women, I understood their needs and their wants which has brought me to this.

What is the motto you live by professionally?

It’s a new motto, I’m still trying to tell myself every day ‘just enjoy the process’, because time passes by so quickly and you always look back in hindsight and you think ‘it happened for a reason’ but I want to be a bit more mindful of the situations I’m in right now.

What has been the biggest challenge?

Coming from a fashion buying background I had a very structured job and a team, and now I’ve gone to a start-up which means you’re everything. I’m the CEO, I’m the delivery boy, I’m the accountant. Whilst I’m learning a lot, you have to put on different hats and that’s probably the biggest challenge to adapt to.

What do you still want to achieve?

So much, we haven’t even scratched the surface of Wear That. We are very much still in Phase 1, we are testing new things every day, the business is growing so quickly that it’s just developing, and it’s so exciting to be part of it and to see how it evolves.

Who has influenced you the most?

I could sit here and say my family and friends, and that’s probably a political answer, but what I really want to say is I just love other start-ups, I love hearing their miseries and achievements, and things I can adapt to my business, take their learnings and make my business better. I just love start-ups because everyone is so honest about the journey they have to go through.

If you could give your younger self one piece of advice, what would it be?
Just to chill and it will all be okay. I think we stress so much, but even now if I look back six months I think ‘oh gosh’. I think you need to be in the moment, enjoy the highs and the lows, relax and go with it.

What would you tell yourself 10 years from now? 

Enjoy the process.

Complete this sentence: I’m happy when…
I’m in the mountains with my husband and my friends. We run these crazy ultramarathons and it’s just so good to get out there for 10 hours, you have no phone, and it’s so good to get away from it all.

Describe your personal style in one word.
Eclectic.

What do you say ‘no’ to?
Meat. And professionally I say no to the word ‘I can’t’ because there is always a solution to something, you just have to think outside the box.

What book are you reading at the moment?

I’m listening to Shoe Dog by Phil Knight, but I’m really obsessed with this podcast called ‘My Favourite Murder’, it’s just a light hearted way to relax if you don’t want to listen to business things.

How do you want the world to remember you?

I figure that I won’t be around so I don’t care what they say about me.

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On February 21 2019, Salvatore Ferragamo announced Paul Andrew as the new Creative Director.

The Italian fashion house promoted Andrew into the esteemed position. Previously, the English shoemaker and fashion designer worked as Women’s Footwear Director within the company.

As he takes on the role for the so-called ‘shoemaker to the stars’, here’s three things to know about Paul and his career to date.

Salvatore Ferragamo Milan Fashion week 2019

He has his own footwear brand

If you don’t recognise his name under the luxury Italian fashion house, it might ring a bell due to this craftsman’s very own footwear brand.

In September 2012, the New York-based designer launched the eponymous women’s footwear label that was both a commercial success and celebrity favourite.

Black and white slingback heel from Paul Andrew’s own footwear brand

Paul joined the company in 2016

Paul joined Ferragamo in 2016 as Women’s Footwear Director. He was promoted one year later to Women’s Creative Director before earning this further title in 2019.

Throughout his fashion career, he has worked with names such as Narciso Rodriguez, Calvin Klein and Donna Karen.

Paul Andrew’s collection for Ferragamo in 2019

Signature style

Both within his previous body of work and through his own declaration, the designer admits he’s always been fascinated with striking colours and bold shapes.

While he had adored exotic prints and vibrant hues throughout his career, he’s attested that intricate and overly complicated designs have never been his forte.

READ: Salvatore Ferragamo’s Milan Fashion Week collection

READ: Salvatore Ferragamo has the ultimate shoe design course 

Salvatore Ferragamo, Missoni, Giorgio Armani and more took to the catwalks for Milan Fashion Week AW19 on February 23, and here are just some of the key takeaway looks from the Italian designers.

Giorgio Armani

One of the most highly anticipated shows of MFW, Giorgio Armani‘s Autumn/Winter 2019 collection left us feeling far from blue, despite the overarching colours across the men’s and women’s lines.

Keeping in line with the elegance of the collection, the blue hues were more navy and Prussian in tone than baby blue or duck egg. Donned the ‘Rhapsody in Blue’ collection, the AW19 collection showcased velvet capes, billowing silk blouses, and delicate sequins up-top darker shades, giving Giorgio Armani’s collection had an ethereal, night-sky feel.

Missoni

A far cry from Giorgio’s sleek and sensible line, Missoni evoked a more playful feel on the runway this weekend. Carrying on from the seventies reinvention that’s been dominant over the last few seasons – from beige shirts to stylish flares –  the Italian fashion house moved away from the work-wear of the era and into out-of-office attire.

This time, everything was high shine, from jumpsuits to wide leg trousers. Paying homage to Missoni’s signature colourful knits, the vibrant yet cosy element was kept alive with pattern coats, flowing capes and hooded scarves in soft shades.

Salvatore Ferragamo Milan Fashion week 2019

Salvatore Ferragamo

Ferragamo also aimed to reinvent smart-wear for AW19. Granite and slate shades of skirts and shirts were given a disheveled twist by featuring off-centered zips and pockets. These moody colours were also seen on leather strap dresses and capes.

Splashes of colour came in the form of oversized burgundy jackets and bright bags. The deep regal shades featured were said to be a callback to the original visions of Salvatore Ferragamo.

Roberto Cavalli

A different offering on Cavalli‘s signature tiger prints, Paul Surridge added an abstract touch to the animal print with bright but earthy tones of yellow, blue and brown. From double breasted trench coats to wrap dresses and jumpsuits, the standout print of the collection was featured on soft tailoring with round shoulders and flowing cuts.

Elsewhere, the intricate print was balanced out with mustard-yellow dresses and roll necks, pine green suits and berry-pink skirts.

Read: Milan Fashion Week AW19 highlights from Tod’s, Versace, Bottega Veneta and more 

Read: Paul Surridge speaks to A&E about rebooting Roberto Cavalli 

Read: A&E Interviews CEO of Salvatore Ferragamo Parfums

Today we are joined for Morning Coffee by Basma Abu Ghazaleh founder of Dubai-based fashion brand Kage.

Abu Ghazaleh started her brand ten years ago with the vision of starting a brand that was contemporary, effortless and playful. She has since go on to have both local and international success and is currently working on expanding the brand even further internationally.

We discuss fashion, the future and inspiration when Basma Abu Ghazaleh joins us for a morning coffee.

Describe your morning routine.
My morning routine is relatively simple. I get my coffee in the morning and I go through all of my emails. Then I have a quick shower, a quick face routine, then off to D3 to the Kage studio. I only have breakfast if I’m hungry.

What is you first fashion memory?
I was under the age of 10 and I created clothes, dresses and headbands out of clean garbage bags and forced my younger cousin to dress up and take pictures with me.

How has Kage evolved and what can we expect in the future?
With time the collections and the designs have become aesthetically more mature, that being said, we have to make sure that we stick to the brand’s DNA, that’s very important for us. Two years ago we launched the Kage website for a more international reach so I think that was a big milestone for us. For AW19 which we are launching now, we are doing a little accessory line but I can’t tell you anymore yet!

What do you think of the fashion scene in the Middle East?
I think the people starting in the fashion industry today are really lucky to be part of it. It’s a really exciting time to be part of the industry in the Middle East today, you’ve got so many different initiatives and hubs and fashion prizes that are going on that helps to give brand exposure. You have Fashion Forward which was an amazing platform and gave so many brands exposure that they wouldn’t normally have, the Dubai Design District, where Kage is, is an amazing creative hub for young designers and young talents to be super inspiring. Then you have initiatives that help bring out all the talent, so I think it’s a really exciting time in the region to be part of fashion.

What advice would you give to those starting out?
I always say that it shouldn’t be a hobby. It’s a business at the end of the day, and because it’s such a competitive industry you need to find a gap in the market and be innovative. Always be passionate and be patient and believe in yourself, and you will get there.

What has been the biggest challenge?

I think international expansion and recognition is probably most difficult part.

What do you consider your biggest career success to date?
The fact that we’re still going and are approaching 10 year anniversary is something that we’re super proud of.

What’s is the motto you live by professionally?

Work life balance.

What do you still want to achieve?
Even more international reach and brand recognition.

Who has influenced you the most?
There isn’t one particular person, but I would say that my father has been quiet influential in the way that I run my business, but mostly I would say successful and inspiring stories that I hear or read about influence me.

If you could give your younger self one piece of advice, what would it be?
Be patient and live the moment.

Describe your personal style in one word.
I would like to say ‘effortless’.

What do you say ‘no’ to?
Sugar when I’m dieting!

What book are you reading at the moment?

I’m sad to say that I don’t read much.

How do you want the world to remember you?
I’ve said this before, I would like people to remember me by saying that she was someone who was so passionate about what she was doing and she dared to dream big.

 READ MORE: 

Morning Coffee With…Mohamed Somji, Co-Director of Gulf Photo Plus

Morning Coffee with Balsam Al Khalil, Etiquette and Protocol Expert and Image Consultant

Friday brought a fresh and exciting day to Milan Fashion week with shows from Versace, Tod’s, Marni, Etro and more.

Tod’s

Tod’s

As always Tod’s brought Italian timeless chic to the runway for its autumn/winter 19 collection. An autumnal colour palette of rich tones made up slick shapes in luxe fabrics. Leather was key with the fabric coming in various colours and styles. This collection was simple and classically Tod’s but felt completely relevant for today’s woman. Of course the accessories were on point. There were bucket bags in various colours and prints and the ladylike D-styling bag in endless shades and sizes. Calf and knee-length boots provided comfort but also style, while the classic loafer was embellished with gold plaques. Perhaps our favourite addition was the leopard print, which added an edginess to the looks.

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta

There was great anticipation in what was Daniel Lee’s first collection for Bottega Veneta. Set in a bright and airy greenhouse style tent, the location gave way to the fine details of the collection. Geometric lines were highlighted in luxurious fabrics that came in warm tones. With a somewhat futuristic twist on leather shapes and lines were laser-cut into fabrics for the ultimate biker-chic look. There were also some menswear looks which as well wouldn’t look out of place on the back of a motorbike, with leather leggings ripped woollen jumpers and longline coats. There was intricate weaving in the form of the maxi intreccio pattern and even the odd sequin dress and spash of colour to bring some femininity to the collection. With this collection Lee respected the heritage of the house but put his own stamp on it.

Etro

Etro

If there’s one thing Etro does best it’s the paisley print. Veronica Etro took inspiration from her family’s archive of 18th-century paisley scarves which was given a modern twist in rich autumnal tones. Printed pieces were juxtaposed against black separates and the print even made its way onto bags and shoes. Boho dresses were belted at the waist with thick black belts and worn with biker boots and large earrings. There was heavy embroidery, crocheted lace and rich velvet fabrics. Towards the second half of the show things took a turn to Cool Britannia. With logo jumpers, stripes and checks. There were big bows, velvet trousers, neck scarves and collared dresses, all vibrant and bold in their own individual way. This was a show of mash ups and unlikely mixes that turned out to be effortlessly seamless.

Marni

Marni

Pyjamas and pleats, checks and silky fabrics with a punk edge were the basis of Marni’s autumn/winter 19 collection. Dark lips, black accessories and full fringes gave a gothic edge to this collection which, for the first half was mostly black, white and red when it came to the colour palette. Digital prints were bold and striking. For the second half of the show colour became bolder and brighter with red and orange tones adding some welcoming fun. This was a daring collection.

Versace

Versace

One of the most highly anticipated shows of every season is Versace. Donatella had been teasing the collection through her Instagram account for the last few days and she didn’t disappoint. Speaking before the show Versace said: “A little bit of imperfection is the new perfection.” And it was with this in mind that she designed the autumn/winter collection. Once again we were taken to the era of nineties grunge, which was given a Versace-twist with the classic yellow print. Shoes came in the form of lace up boots, while bags were either belted onto the waist or handheld clutches. There were knits finished with safety pins, slinky pencil skirts hemmed with lace, bra-style corsets worn over clothes and unusual layering. It’s safe to say this collection was the unexpected but it had strong links to the brand’s heritage.

Miuccia Prada used two juxtaposing inspirations for her AW19 collection in Milan last night. The first was Frankenstein, who provided a gothic, dark feel to the collection. While the second was the rose, which added a soft feminine side the show.

Models wore their hair in two long braids – looking like they had just stepped off the set of the classic TV series The Addams Family.

When it came to the clothes there was a strong nineties feel as Frankenstein met femininity. Looks were paired with Doc. Martin style books to give them a grungy edge. There was plenty of all-black ensembles, broken up by decorative roses that were sewn, embellished, printed and drawn onto pieces. Amongst the darkness came lace, which was seen in jackets, skirts, and as details on pieces. Military style coats and jackets collided with lace to re-enhance the two opposing styles of feminine and masculine. Frankenstein himself even appeared cartoon-style printed onto pieces alongside his bride (incidentally worn by Cara Delevingne who is having a runway comeback this season).

The final part of the show featured cocktail and prom style dresses that could have been taken straight out of a nineties teen movie. Cute and girly but with an edgy.

When it came  to accessories – bags were either ladylike or oversized rucksacks; once again highlight the two opposing themes. While shoes came in the form of heavy masculine boots and loafers of ladylike glitzy courts.

Post show Miuccia Prada used her time to talk about the conflicting politics in Europe right now – perhaps a subtle inspiration between the opposing views of this collection?

READ MORE:

Milan Fashion Week A/W 2019: Fendi

Milan Fashion Week A/W19: Max Mara

Karl Lagerfeld’s legacy lives on through his last collection for Fendi.

After the devastating news of Karl Lagerfeld’s death earlier this week there was much anticipation as to the action the team at Fendi would take with regards to today’s show. And of course there was a touching tribute lead by Silvia Venturini Fendi. The show notes read:

“The FENDI fall/winter 2019-2020 collection is the final collection designed by Karl Lagerfeld, representing a lifetime of dedication and creation from 1965 until today. In his perpetual search for beauty and innovation, Karl’s commitment to his craft never waned. This collection embodies that devotion, from the season’s defining sketches to his ultimate FENDI gesture: the romantic trace of a silk foulard. Reflected in a multitude of ideas, each expression is innately and forever his own.”

 

This collection embodied everything Karl has created over his decades-long reign at the brand. From the pagoda shoulders to the zipped and double breasted tailoring which is nipped at the waist and finished with one of Karl’s favourite finishing’s – the bow. Simplistic and elegant in their design but with a quirky edge, each look showed a different aspect of personality. Full pleated trousers and asymmetric lapels were slick while knife-pleated skirts and monogram tulle bodysuits highlight unique craftsmanship. The ‘FF’ logo which was first designed by Karl in 1981 could be seen on buttons and intarsia fur.

Karl’s reputation for his unique approach to sketching his designs was highlighted in a short film played at the end of the show which saw Karl hand drawing one of the designs. The crowd erupted in cheers to show their support for the legend.

His partner at Fendi and colleague for many years Silvia Venturini Fendi said in a statement:

 

“The bond between Karl Lagerfeld and FENDI is fashion’s longest love story, one that will continue to touch our lives for years to come. I am profoundly saddened by his passing and deeply touched by his constant care and perseverance until the very end. When we called just a few days before the show, his only thoughts were on the richness and beauty of the collection. It’s a true testament to his character. He shall be so missed.”

There is no doubt this collection will go down in history.

A chic and neutral colour palette was broken up with flashes of bold colour and prints at Max Mara’s fall/winter 19 show today in Milan. With a model cast that included Bella Hadid, Kaia Gerba and Irina Shayk there’s no doubt this show will make the headlines.

Designed for the most elegant modern women the collection features smart tailoring with a relaxed edge. Comfort and style meet in a perfect scenario. Fits were loose and relaxed – no  uncomfortable tight cuts here, and fabrics were slouchy and soft. Long-line jackets, loose baggy trousers and soft woollen knits created looks that would be perfect on a city street.

Amongst the neutrals were bright and bold hues that made up statement looks. All shades of one colour, the looks were tonally coherent yet striking. There were checks and oversized animal print that broke up  the simple looks

Accessories came in the form of over the knee boots, large bags and front-facing pockets that were worn outside in.

This collection was designed for the real woman who will embrace the elegance and femininity of the pieces. We are already making orders in our minds of which looks to add to our wardrobes!

This season Moncler has expanded its Genius project to partner with twelve key designers who have collaborated with the brand on capsule collections that will drop each month for the next twelve months. Among the line-up is Valentino Creatiev Director Pierpaolo Picciolo, Richard Quinn, British designer Simone Rocha and Hiroshi Fujiwara. Each designer has created their own aesthetic that brings together their unique vision and the Moncler brand identity. Some of the highlights are below:

1 MONCLER PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI

For his collection Pierpaolo Picciolo combined his signature style of long voluminous gowns with Moncler’s love for padding. Colourful prints and designs came courtesy of Picciolo’s friend Liya Kebede who used the personality of her sustainable Ethiopian fashion brand LemLem to create vibrant personalities. Puffer boots, dresses and bags were truly Moncler but the Picciolo twist was undeniable.

MONCLER RICHARD QUINN

Designer Richard Quinn has been making headlines for the past two seasons, and fresh from showing his collection in London he presented his collaboration with Moncler. A bold floral parade of oversized, overly colourful designs.

Moncler 1952 (Donna) was designed by Veronica Leoni who was formally at Celine. Her collection was elegant with modern lines and sharp cuts, accentuated by the Moncler puffer jacket.

MONCLER SIMONE ROCHA

For her second time partnering with Moncler Simone Rocha turned to nature for her inspiration. The neutral collection was set in a forest, with the idea of a camping trip setting. Padded jackets were decorated with feminine bows and laces and paired with knee-high socks and boots.

Hiroshi Fujiwara’s menswear collection was all about being outdoors. Fit for a mountaineer the collection featured military style pieces in a colour palette of neutral khaki and navy. Fujiwara really looked to the technology of Moncler to produced winter looks that were extreme but very wearable and stylish.

READ MORE:

Milan Fashion Week A/W19 shows: Moncler

London Fashion Week Shows: Buberry

Alberta Ferretti brought chic-ness to the runway on the first day of the autumn/winter 19 shows in Milan. The Italian designer has a a slight change of gear in her last few shows and that’s something that seems to continue this season. While the core focal point of all her collections is to design for the chic, feminine woman, Ferretti has modernised this to evolve from cocktail dresses and gowns to stylish day wear that the woman of today can really wear.

For her latest collection we say elegant pieces that could be worn from day to night and while some had a casual feel they felt timelessly elegant and glamorous at the same time. Things kicked off with a colour palette of all white which evolved into Ferret’s statement pastel shades and subtle metallics.

While the old Ferretti would have sent a collection of dresses down the runway, this one was dominated by pant suits and trousers paired with smart jackets. Accessories came in the form of wide-brimmed hats that bridged the gap between masculinity and femininity.

Of course it wouldn’t be an Alberta Ferretti show without the odd red carpet gown which came towards the end of the show. Mirrored fabrics, metallics and cut-out mermaid style dresses were ultra feminine.

Breitling adds to its pilot watch offering with three new models inspired by the iconic Curtiss Warhawk that celebrates two legends of the skies.

Breitling presents three new watches that will commemorate an aviation legend: The Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, the most famous plan built by American aircraft manufacturer Curtiss Wright, known for its iconic sharks teeth. These two new Chronographs and three-hand watch fit seamlessly into the brand’s offering of pilot watches and reiterate the importance of aviation watches to the brand. Two chronographs – one featuring a Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01 movement – have been introduced along with a three-hand model.

Breitling has an incredible reputation for its pilot watches and it’s through that these huge new launches will build on that as well as introducing a partnership between two aviation pioneers. The watch offerings will appeal to those who are interested in aviation and hold a background in pilot watch collecting, while it’s stylish appeal will widen the market reach and attract a new generation of customers.

Breitling CEO Georges Kern said of the launch; “Curtiss Wright produced the P-40 Warhawk at the same time Breitling and its Huit Aviation Department were making onboard instruments for planes used by the RAF and other air forces. With this partnership and these great new watches, we are reaffirming the importance of Breitling’s aviation heritage to the brand.”

The Breitling Aviator 8 B01 Chronograph 43 Curtiss Warhawk

The first watch features a military green dial with a matte finish and military green strap. The contrasting silver sub-dials signify the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01 – the brand’s in-house mechanical movement, which offers a power reserve of 70 hours. This striking watch is equipped with a bi-directional rotating bezel with Arabic numerals and a red pointer. The numerals are coated with Super-Lumi-Nova ensuring they are easy to read in all lighting conditions. The 43-milimeter stainless-steel case is water resistant up to 100 metres. The caseback has a transparent sapphire crystal printed with a Curtiss inscription and an image of an airborne P-40 Warhawk complete with the iconic shark’s mouth that was associated with the plane when it was piloted by the American Volunteer Group in the Chinese Air Force’s famed Flying Tigers unit.

The Breitling Aviator 8 Chronograph 43 Curtiss Warhawk

The second watch is in the same colour combination but the main diffenece is  the mechanical movement. This watch featured the Breitling Caliber 13, a mechanical movement renowned for its stability and performance. It has a power reserve of 42 hours.

The Breitling Aviator 8 Automatic 41 Curtiss Warhawk

Inside the DLC coated stainless-steel case of this watch is a Breitling Caliber 17 movement, which offers a power reserve of around 40 hour. The precision of this model is confirmed by its status as a COSC chronometer. The watch again features the iconic image of the Curtiss Warhawk complete with shark teeth.

READ MORE:

Breitling CEO Georges Kern Is A Man On A Mission

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Co-Director of Dubai’s premier photography centre joins us for a chat over a cup of morning coffee.

Describe your morning routine.

That’s an easy one. I have to start with my obligatory coffee, my espresso. It’s a good time to catch up with the news. It’s good time to decompress before the day gets crazy. Then I go online and check Twitter and newspaper sites.

Tell us a little bit about Gulf Photo plus.

We are Dubai’s photography centre, we’ve been around for 15 years and the festival has been around for 15 years. We teach photography to all levels, we host exhibitions, we have artist talks, we are resource for photographers so they can come and do printing with us, the can share their work with us and with a wider community and we have photo books and film resources, so we are really meant to be a hub for the photography scene here in Dubai and the wider Middle East

And what is you role?

I curate exhibitions, I try to find interesting workshops that the people might like, and do everything really.

What is the photography scene like in the region?

I think we haven’t had the head start compared to countries where photography has be integral to the arts and culture scene. I think outside the Gulf there has been a tremendous surge of young photographers making some incredible work that is thoughtful, that is layered, very new angst in their reporting very interesting and important stories. In the Gulf I think we’re a little bit behind and that’s why we’re trying to champion people getting outside decorative and ornamental photography and being more serious in their approach. That’s what we’re hoping to change and improve.

And what do you think makes a good photographer today?

A good photographer is somebody who is good at storytelling and not just as an observer, more as a participant. I think we all have interesting stories that we are part of and I think that telling that to a wider audience and going in depth with the work, both from a visual but also leaving behind an impact. We come across social phenomena all the time, but if a photographer can tell that story that leaves more questions than answers, I think that’s a measure of a good photographer. Who can find these stories and find interesting ways to tell them.

How have Smart Phones changed the photography industry?

We’ve been able to make photographs from different devices, but what I think is interesting is that they have been a catalyst for distribution. I’m not interested in an iPhone or a smart phone as a medium, but rather social media platforms like Instagram or the internet in general, people who didn’t have access to be able to share their work, it’s given them an incredible platform. And with good work, these images and stories are being noticed. And yes, to an extent everyone has a device that can capture photographs and it’s helped improve visual literacy because now people are not just casual consumers of photography and are actively making their photographs, and I think it’s widened the scope of who is taking the photograph and what’s being taken. I think I’m excited about the possibilities of that.

What do you look for in emerging talent?

I think we talked about story-telling, it’s very difficult to have a good idea and then execute into meaningful work. I’m less interested in how technically good they are, but if they arrest by you having a very strong thread of images and it doesn’t have to be just images it can be a variety of mediums, that’s just something that we like to champion and show as well. The ability to tell stories and find ways to make those stories engaging.

What do you consider the biggest success with GPP?

I think we championed the idea of using photography to be a catalyst for thinking about issues in a different way. When people start their photographic journey, they get excited about making a good photo and what we are really proud of taking that casual interest in photography to people who are taking that talent and skill and doing something really interesting work that’s going to plant that seed in the viewers mind. They think about an issue in a different way or they ask questions and dig into the things that they’ve seen, and I think expanding that narrative around what photography is and can be is something we are proud of.

What has been the biggest challenge?
The industry is very dynamic. New camera’s come out, people are shooting a lot more with their mobile phone’s than camera, so we had to evolve our workshops that are very much camera-focused when this shift happened, understanding that these trends are taking place and then reacting to them. So now we have a lot more workshops about mobile photography and mobile video. Constantly keeping people engaged and interested, there are a lot of resources online but being able to get people to come in through the door and getting them to participate and purchase our product and services while still making available for them the art programming and the resourcing and the talks. So that has been a challenge but we thrive on that.

What’s is the motto you live by professionally?
Less is more. Simplifying things. Whether it’s what we eat or how we make presentations, how we take photographs, I think less is more.

What do you still want to achieve?
So many things. I want to make more photographs, I want to tell more stories, I want to have more exhibitions at Gulf Photo Plus, I want to help young photographers to share their talent with a wider audience, so much.

If you could give your younger self one piece of advice, what would it be?
I’m still young! Slowing down, not rushing into things, being deliberate. I think instinct is good but I think you can slow down and let things fall into place rather than trying to force them.

When should you compromise?

I think if you keep site of your big picture or main goals, everything else is details and there are compromises to be made. I think if you have a goal and a clear vision, and compromises aren’t going to effect the big picture then by all means, make all the compromises you need to make.

And when should you never compromise?
So when it comes to your principles or your values. I think, especially we see this a lot with photographers and creatives, it’s to never compromise you self-worth. I think in this very capitalistic and consumerist world there is this notion to get more for less and to drive prices down. We provide an important service, just like a product, and I think we are always advising photographers to know their value and never compromise on that, and it’s hard because it can be very difficult at times but I think if you’re a photographer and you’re sure of your talent, don’t ever compromise that.

What book are you reading at the moment?
I try to switch between fiction and non-fiction. I just started The Ministry of Utmost Happiness by Arundhati Roy, and the non-fiction is very serious but well written, it’s an academic book, the language is a lot more clear and simple and it’s called Good Muslim, Bad Muslim by Mahmood Mamdani.

How do you want the world to remember you?
I don’t really care if they remember me, I just hope that they remember what we did at Gulf Photo Plus and putting it on a platform and the ability for photographers to share their work, and remember the stories that we tell.

 READ MORE: 

Morning Coffee with Balsam Al Khalil

Morning Coffee with Zaid Farouki

Balsam Al Khalil is Chief Representative Officer at the Bank of Beirut in the UAE and Gulf region. Born in Lebanon, she spent her career in the corporate banking world, working her way up to the position she holds today. Balsam has a keen interest in business investments in the region, which is something she specialises in. As well as her day job, Balsam also studied Etiquette and Fashion Styling and Image Consultancy at London College of Fashion. She then became a certified Business Etiquette and International Protocol Consultant. Today she uses the knowledge she gained from this to write articles and books on manners and lifestyle. Her book Travel Etiquette is a guide for the modern traveller containing travel tips and advice.

Describe your morning routine.
I’m an early riser, I wake up as early as 5.30am. I check the weather, I check the birds in the garden, I have a quiet moment, and then I head to my office. I  drink green tea and matcha tea followed by black tea.

How has your corporate background helped to shape your career today?
Actually I’ve been in banking for so long and I started in Lebanon and moved to Dubai in 1993. The Bank of Beirut is like my baby, I established it in the Gulf region, so although I have started something else, banking has been my career for so long.

So what then drew you to etiquette and image consulting?
The diplomacy world was always a dream. I was supposed to be an ambassador back in 1992 and then I moved to Dubai and was so busy with banking in a sense that I forgot that for some time. It has been always a passion so I went back to it, started studying again, went to finishing school, from there to Brussels to Protocol School and I was the first woman to have a degree in this region and I wrote books. I got more and more involved in the etiquette world.

How important is etiquette and good manners in today’s society?
It is the top priority. Unfortunately we’re seeing a lot of things, and keeping good manners at all times is a must.

What do you think defines good manners?
Politeness, being kind, doing things the proper way, treating people as you wish to be treated yourself. Kindness doesn’t cost anything, but rudeness might cost you everything so it’s not really very difficult to be good mannered. It’s something you have to teach your kids from early morning, and the juts do it.

Tell us a little bit about your book Travel Etiquette.
That’s my first baby and I love it, it’s a very cute book. Being a frequent traveller I see lots of things on board, at the airport, so I thought ‘I can’t handle this anymore, I have to tell them one way or another ‘please don’t do this, don’t do that’. It was my first experience, I wanted to be light so I created a character, it was a cartoon character called Ms B. Ms B is basically me in that character, who tells people how to behave properly. She’s fun and the book was all about travel from the moment you start to travel up to the destination, so it was done in a light way and it was well received.

What are the three tips you always follow?
Be friendly, polite, but always professional.

Who would you say is your professional mentor?
I can’t say that I have one, but I’m always impressed with anybody successful, anybody polite, anybody well-behaved even if it’s a child.

What do you still want to achieve?

I think I would like to see my etiquette school in the Gulf region.

If you could give your younger self one piece of advice, what would it be?
Be selective.

What would you tell yourself 10 years from now?
I will tell Balsam that you’ve done a lot and it’s time to chill out.

Complete this sentence: I’m happy when…
I see positive results in whatever I’m doing.

Describe your personal style?
Classic and chic.

What do you say ‘no’ to?
Anything that bothers me, anything that is not genuine.

What book are you reading at the moment?
Becoming by Michelle Obama.

How do you want the world to remember you?
As a special lady.

READ MORE:

Morning Coffee with Zaid Farouki

Morning Coffee With Sabrina Sadiq

Karl Lagerfeld has died in Paris after a short illness. The fashion designer and icon has defined an generation of fashion, transforming Chanel as a brand over his 30 year reign and also defining the image of Fendi as creative director for many decades.

Karl has become the most recognise man in fashion and will surely leave a big hole in the industry, but his legend will surely live on through his designs and the legacy he leaves behind.

An official statement made by Chanel today read;

“It is with deep sadness that the House of CHANEL announces the passing of Karl Lagerfeld, the Creative Director for the CHANEL Fashion House since 1983. An extraordinary creative individual, Karl Lagerfeld reinvented the brand’s codes created by Gabrielle Chanel: the CHANEL jacket and suit, the little black dress, the precious tweeds, the two-tone shoes, the quilted handbags, the pearls and costume jewelry. Regarding Gabrielle Chanel, he said; My job is not to do what she did, but what she would have done. The good thing about Chanel is it is an idea you can adapt to many things.”

 

Karl was a visionary with an endless imagination. Known for his ability to reinvent brands in so many ways, making them relevant today, even as a man in his eighties. The designer was known for his unique approach to hand sketching his designs, his sense of humour and at times his controversial, outspoken opinions. He was loved and respected by those in the fashion world and beyond and was a source of inspiration for many fashion designers, models, creative directors and more.

Alain Wertheimer, CEO of CHANEL, said: “Thanks to his creative genius, generosity and exceptional intuition, Karl Lagerfeld was ahead of his time, which widely contributed to the House of CHANEL’s success throughout the world. Today, not only have I lost a friend, but we have all lost an extraordinary creative mind to whom I gave carte blanche in the early 1980s to reinvent the brand.”

A true legend that will be sadly missed.

READ MORE:

Chanel Haute Couture SS19

The History of Fendi

Today we are joined for Morning Coffee by fashion designer Zaid Farouki. Farouki set up is own named fashion brand in the UAE after receiving a degree in Fashion Design in Italy. Farouki moved to London and attended Central Saint Martins College, specialising in couture techniques and embroidery as well as hand painting. These skills can be seen in his designs today, which often feature hand painted drawings and designs. Here we discuss with Farouki his brand and his outlook on life over a cup of coffee.

Describe your morning routine.

My favourite and most productive way of starting my day is actually waking up around 5am. I actually have a gym class at 7am, so 7-8am working out, the from there off to the office. I’ll be in the office before 9am. I guess until how much work I have during the day and if I’m lucky I get to catch up with my friends and then I’m usually in bed before 10pm.

Tell us why you decided to become a fashion designer.

It hasn’t been the smoothest of journeys. I started by always wanting to be a fashion designer, but coming from a Middle Eastern background my parents weren’t fully on board while I was applying to college and I wanted a degree in fashion. So we agreed on the fact that I would go and major in Business Administration and Marketing and I minored in art to keep the creativity flowing. Then after completion I moved to Italy, got a second degree in Fashion Design, then I moved to London and did courses in fabric painting, couture embroidery and couture stitching.  Then I moved to Dubai and launched my own brand. And that’s what the journey has been over the three years.

Describe your creative process.

I really feed off the energy that I’m surrounded by in the city that I’m living in at that point. The different social interactions I have with people. I’m really inspired by my background, my family’s background and the region as well. So, it’s this kind of thing that I have this idea and I leave it to ferment in the my head for like months. I might not even think about or sketch about it but it’s right there, it’s turning into that bigger image in the back of my head. Then it can take me about a week and I’ll be completely done with the vision, and the sketches and the mood board so I really leave it for quite a while until it becomes a reality.

How would you summarise your brand in one sentence?

I think I can summarise it down to one word and call it ‘creative’. We don’t abide by seasons, we don’t abide by collections, we have these themes and we just launch. It’s more works of art or installations or as a presentation in the art gallery and you have this theme presented all at once.

Are there brands that inspire you?
The thing is there’s a really fine balance between inspiration and copying, because that’s something we do not do whatsoever. For inspiration we can go through many brands whether the brands are still alive and functioning, or brands that have managed to close down in history. We are inspired by the history, by the feeling, the cut, the branding everything of that sort. So I don’t look at it just as cuts and what goes on the runway, I’m really inspired by the journeys of those designers. When we say ‘we’ it’s my team and I. I’m the sole designer and painter, but then we have a team that brings my ideas to life and a marketing manager.

What is your take on the design scene in the Middle East?

What happened is that we moved to the Middle East because we wanted to be part of that growing talent base and talent pool that’s available. We have examples of Middle Eastern designers who have made it big, specifically right now couture week is happening and it is flooded by Arab designers. So, we look at it and I see there’s so much potential and there is a lot to say about this region. Also, because I believe we are one of the major markets of fashion in the world statistically, and I think we needed a voice from within us to come out – people from the region – and be like this is us, this is what we create and it’s creating that community all together.

What’s is the motto you live by professionally?

I don’t know if it’s a motto, but I always have this thing in the back of my head, it might be a bit dark, but I always say ‘would I actually regret it on my death bed?’ That’s the whole idea. But afterwards I just go ahead with it.

What do you consider your biggest career success to date?

More than a career success, I think the journey for me is very personal for me as well. Because my career is me, and I am the brand, and this relationship between all of us its watered down, you no longer distinguish yourself. And I think my growth. If I were to focus on one key success then I’d maybe take a break and go on a vacation, but I don’t want to do that. Actually seeing my growth day by day, month by month, year by year so that I think is major success for me.

What has been the biggest challenge?
I think the biggest challenge is, as I mentioned before, I’m the brand, I’m there creative behind it yet I am what my personal growth relies on, the brand relies on it. So I think the biggest challenge is in a weird way protecting myself, looking at constant growth and trying to grow internally and personally every single day, career wise, and my personal life because I give myself that measure. I think, waking up every day ready for a new day, ready to put myself into that positive mental situation and pushing away negative thoughts on to the side, either that or I’m just not going to be creative for that day, or a week or even month.

Who would you say is your professional mentor?
I’m lucky to be mentored by Mr Hosein who is actually a major player in the Middle Eastern industry. He is currently CEO of Net-A-Porter Middle East, it has been a pleasure being mentored by him.

If you could give your younger self one piece of advice, what would it be?
Trust your instinct.

Complete this sentence: I’m happy when…
I am the most creative.

Describe your personal style.
Bold with a bit of cultural heritage and there’s no limitation in a way that ‘why would you limit yourself to a certain aspect or a certain idea?’ At the end of the day its like dressing up or having a costume. You got to play it out, dress up to your personality, just be you. Let it come out.

What do you say ‘no’ to?
Copying other people’s work. I’ve had certain people come in and be like ‘we really love this dress by that certain and designer’ and it comes to a point like ‘I’m sorry I can’t recreate it for you’.

What book are you reading at the moment?

On my nightstand there are three books. One is about old Middle Eastern politics in Arabic, and then I have a Harvard Business Review about sales and marketing and then there is another a book which is The Subtle Art of Not Giving a F*ck.

How do you want the world to remember you?

At the end of day, I guess I just want to inspire future generations, specifically the younger generation from our region to go after what they truly want. Remember me for what I do, it’s a life lived and everything I will produce or have produced within, it’s just preserving what I can be remembered for.

Riccardo Tisci presented his Fall/Winter 19 collection for Burberry at London Fashion Week last night. In what was the designer’s second collection for the brand, he once again took inspiration from Britain, this tie looking to the country’s culture and weather. Presented in a spectacular setting inside the Tate Modern, the collection combined the structured and the rebellious while evolving Tisci’s Burberry characters first unveiled in SS19; the girl, the boy, the lady and the gentleman.

The first half of the collection had a strong streetwear vibe to it with clashing materials and prints and sporty influences, while the second part of the show took on a much more grown up and elegant personality for both men and women. Of course, the Burberry check was there, this time in its classic form, while leopard print and the classic Thomas Burberry print, as unveiled last season was seen on dresses shirts and skirts.

The Burberry trench stayed somewhat traditional and chic, while deconstructed versions were also made of layered materials. The colour palette was neutral with flashes of bold colours including green, orange and red.

Much like the collection itself, the show environment had two very contrasting environments. One was more structured, traditional and formal with severe, angular and rigid wood seating above a dimly lit runway, while the second was more rebellious, brutalist and real. The show music took the audience on a journey from the nineties to present day – highlighting the times that were the inspiration for this collection.

A stellar model lineup included Gigi Hadid, Irina Shayk, Natalia Vodianova, Fran Summers, Anok Yai and lots more.

Today we are joined for Morning Coffee by Sabrina Sadiq, founder of pre-loved luxury shopping site, Luxury Promise who shares with us the unique approach her company has to recycling and sustaining luxury handbags.

Describe your morning routine.

So like all mothers, my morning starts with three active boys jumping on my head, then my morning call, then I get them ready for school, do the school run. Once my children are packed and safe, then I start my day. Like a Londoner, I grab my coffee on the go straight to the office and get on my day.

Tell us a little bit of Luxury Promise and what inspired it?

Luxury Promise is a marketplace for people to buy and sell luxury goods, from the comfort of their own home. How we differ from anyone else is how we use advanced technology, so we use artificial intelligence to help us price and authenticate our items. We are based here in Dubai with an office in London.

Why did you expand into Dubai?
Our business has really been built on what our customers and consumers want, so we had a big demand from the Middle East, and for me it’s a hub of luxury, it’s the ultimate destination, it’s a great hub to get to other destinations such as Asia, so really wanted to come here and have more access to a different variety of people, and be a global company.

How do you ensure authenticity?
We have highly trained staff with a combined 25 year experience in authentication, so every one of our items is checked by expert curators and authenticators. Each stitch, the hardware, the material, is all analysed by us. Once that’s been done, we run all our products through our AI technology, so we use advanced technology to help and enable the authentication process. We use image recognition, we run each image against three million photos and a microscopical image which zooms in 320 times into the products and really look deep, past the naked eye so it’s a very thorough process. Two human authenticators and an AI machine.

How has the business grown since the launch in 2016?

We were founded in August 2016 and business began in January 2017 where we had our first offices at the Bvlgari hotel in London, and from there our team is growing and our technology is growing. We have built an amazing echo system, we ship worldwide, wherever you are in the world we have a logistic to ship to you, and we don’t need your item for you to sell with us. Also growing out the technology and being innovative and creating artificial intelligence to price and working to use artificial intelligence to authenticate the item. We’ve done a lot in the year and a half and really it’s about building a community. We have members that join and we have a great communication with our consumers and our clients and you are communicating with the real experts.

Are there any brands that are particularly popular?
The three major luxury house are Chanel, Hermes and Louis Vuitton, they are the most sought after brands. Also classic pieces. Nowadays I think consumers are very savvy, they understand sustainability and they are smart shoppers so they know an item that is going to be a fast pieces and doesn’t last, so we attract and encourage our customers to go for more classical pieces.

What do you consider your biggest career success to date?
I’d like to think I’m modest. I’m still not happy where I am yet. I’m proud of what we’ve done and it’s amazing the breakthroughs that we’ve had. We’re the first company in the world to introduce artificial intelligence into the secondary luxury market, and it’s a $25 billion market. So I think we are very proud of creating a platform which is not just about the product and it’s about the clients and making sure that we have a model that is for everyone. Typically you see one model that fits all but it doesn’t work like that. So you have companies that have consignment model you part with your item, or you have companies that only allow you to upload the items yourself. We are a mix. If you are tech savvy and want to use a mobile phone to upload the item, you can do that, or if you are someone who is busy and doesn’t have time and wants us to do it, we will take that item from you too.

What’s is the motto you live by professionally?
I always say ‘don’t follow the rules of society’ just because society always gives people titles and you need to be able to do the things that you love to do and don’t try and put yourself in a frame, because society always tries to put you in a box. Everyone always asks ‘what’s your title? What’s my title going to be?’ And it should be a master of everything. Really own what you do and don’t let society to put you in that box. For example I’m a mum and everyone is like ‘you can’t be a mum and run a business, you should be at home with the children, you can’t follow your career and actually that’s not true. If you really put your mind to it, that’s what it’s about.

What’s your personal motto?

Be your own boss.

What has been the biggest challenge?

Every day is a challenge for a business. Every day you’re learning and growing and especially since we’re a tech company we’re really looking to innovate and grow a team. How can we have a global presence, and really take advantage of the digital world we are living.

Who has influenced you the most?
It will have to be my husband and my father. My father was a great businessman he followed his dream, he had an idea, he went with his gut, he worked really hard and was always a good family man. That’s what I strive to be, a good family woman and also follow my dream. My husband inspired me to do more and push myself to the next level.

If you could give your younger self one piece of advice, what would it be?
Don’t be a sheep. Even to my children I say ‘don’t be a sheep and just follow the crowd’. Do what you want to do, there’s no right or wrong.

What would you tell yourself 10 years from now?
That’s a good question. Just again, be independent, be strong, don’t be scared of failing, live out what you really enjoy doing. I was lawyer before I went into handbags, and typically you study law and people automatically think ‘you have to become a lawyer’ and it doesn’t necessarily work like that, now I sell handbags for a living. And enjoy it!

Complete this sentence: I’m happy when…
My children are happy, and of course when my husband presents me with a nice big Hermes orange box! I always say ‘happy wife, happy life’ and that’s probably his motto.

Describe your personal style in one word.
Bright.

What do you say ‘no’ to?
I probably don’t say no to a lot actually. Because if you say no to everything, and are not willing to try, even if it’s outside your comfort zone I think it’s so important to do.

What book are you reading at the moment?

I’m reading the Fashion Journal 2019, talking about how everything is moving to sustainability. I think pre-loved luxury is all about sustainability, recycling and giving an item a new source of life.

How do you want the world to remember you?

Passionate and kind.

For our latest episode of Morning Coffee A&E was joined by Kamilla Omarzay, Founder of The Snack Society.

Describe your morning routine.

Firstly, obviously, brush your teeth. I’m quite particular about getting out of bed and brushing your teeth. I try to do 15 to 20 minutes of meditation, which is hard sometimes because life is always on the go, and then I have breakfast – a very important meal of the day as everybody knows, and then I like to start my morning nice and easy because it sets the tone for the day.

Why The Snack Society?

It was January 2016 when I lost my job, I was in the corporate world and I was devastated. I didn’t know what I wanted to do so when we are devastated we turn to food. So I got in my kitchen and I started making a lot of snacks. I also suffer from a lot of digestive issues such as bloating and cramping and I couldn’t eat a lot of stuff that was available in the market, like the chocolate bars, so I started making my own snacks and I made an Instagram page. I started posting all these nice recipes I used to make and all these vegan treats, and people started messaging me to buy them, so that’s where I started.

What are the common misconception of ‘clean’ and ‘vegan’ diets and how are you tackling them?

I think we are all human at the end of the day, and there’s no ‘one size fits all’ for any diet. Everybody suffers from a lot of different allergies and intolerances. I have some really strange ones, I can’t drink coffee or eat certain foods. You just need to figure out what works for you. There are a lot of plant based foods like sweet potato and cauliflower that doesn’t work for me, so you just need to figure out what works for you. I don’t like the term ‘clean’ because what is the opposite of ‘clean’? And we are human at the end of the day so you are going to fall of the waggon and that’s okay.

What is the biggest challenge you have faced?

Launching my own product. I’ve been working on my product for close to two years and it still not launched. It’s so hard to get a food manufacturer and get all these approvals, but I’m very close to launching it.

What do you consider your biggest career success to date?

There’s been a few, but recently my work has been recognised for social media awards in a ‘Visionary’ category. In short period of time I’ve won two awards and I’m so grateful for that.

What’s is the motto you live by professionally?

I know this sounds really cliché and you’ve probably heard it, but I really believe in working hard, persevering and be consistent with what you’re putting out, and it does pay off.

What do you still want to achieve?

A cook book. I have been working on a cook book for the last year. I have the book ready and I’m speaking to a few international agents to get the book out.

Who has influenced you the most?

This is so cliché again, but Oprah Winfrey. I’ll tell you why. There’s a lot of things that happened to her that happened to me. She lost her job, she was devastated, and she started to become popular and launched her TV show. Also Deliciously Ella who started out as a UK food blogger. She has a lot of intolerances and issues with her health, and she started blogging and now she her product not only in the UK but internationally.

If you could give your younger self one piece of advice, what would it be?
Relax, take it easy.

What would you tell yourself 10 years from now? 

Everything is going to work out fine. What’s meant for you will come to you, and what’s not meant for you will never be yours.

Complete this sentence: I’m happy when…
I’m in nature.

Describe your personal style in one word.
Classic.

What do you say ‘no’ to?
I’m sure everybody can relate to this, but as I grow older, saying no to spending time with people that you don’t want to.

What book are you reading at the moment?

The Power of Now.

How do you want the world to remember you?

Kind, compassionate, down to earth.

KIM JONES’ DEBUT MEN’S COLLECTION FEATURES A CAREFULLY CO-ORDINATED COLOUR PALETTE THAT BRINGS A FRESH LOOK TO THE WELL-DRESSED MAN.

SHIRT, PANTS, JACKET, COAT, SNEAKERS

ALL BY DIOR MEN

LEFT IMAGE: T-SHIRT, SWEATER

RIGHT IMAGE: JACKET, PANTS, SNEAKERS

ALL BY DIOR MEN

SHIRT, JACKET, PANTS, SNEAKERS

ALL BY DIOR MEN

LEFT IMAGE: JACKET, PANTS, SNEAKERS

RIGHT IMAGE: SHIRT, PANTS, BELT, SADDLE BAG

ALL BY MEN

JACKET, PANTS, SADDLE BAG

ALL BY MEN

Styling and Direction: Lindsay Judge

Photographer: Ausra Osipaviciute

Grooming: Emma Gambino

Model: Karim at Bareface

Location: The Opus by Zaha Hadid for Omniyat

While many workplaces are still dominated by men, women are becoming more and more commonly seen in powerful leadership positions.

In the UAE alone, women constitute 66% of the public sector workforce, with around 30% in senior posts, and this is a number that is continuously growing. The region is striving for gender equality and that applies to the workplace too.

Despite all this the taboo around women in senior positions still exists. Often women struggle to find the confidence and power that is needed for high powered roles, especially in male-dominated industries. But the world is changing and it’s for the better.

The #METOO movement has seen this begin to happen in Hollywood and it is something that is filtering down to our day-to-day lives. For women in the workplace there are many ways you can gain the confidence needed and with the correct office etiquette and good manners your confidence will grow. We reveal our tips to being a successful boss woman.

KEEP CALM 

Make sure that you are in a calm peaceful state of mind when you reach the office. Try to forget about all your outside worries and focus on the job in hand. If you have trouble switching off from the outside world try yoga or meditation in the morning  to clear your mind and re-focus.

PRE-PLAY SCENARIOS   

If there are particular situations that worry you, play them out in your head beforehand. If you figure out a solution to the worst possible scenario, chances are you’re going to come out with a much better outcome than expected.

CONTROL YOUR EMOTIONS 

“Easier said than done” we hear you say! Well yes that may well be the case but controlling your emotions in the workplace is key. Yes we all love a good cry and there are times when it cannot be helped but when making business decisions it’s important to keep it strictly business. Of course you want your colleagues to know that you have a bug heart too, but don’t let this overrule your mind in the workplace.

USE ASSERTIVE LANGUAGE    

If you sound confident you will come across confident to others, and one way to do this is by using assertive language. Speaking in a confident strong tone that will ensure others of your confidence will earn their respect and confidence in you.

DON’T SECOND GUESS YOURSELF

Be confident and assured in the decisions  you make. You are in this position because you are strong and great at what you do so don’t doubt your own judgement.  This will also help to earn the respect of others around you.

DELEGATE EFFECTIVELY

Nothing is more stressful than having too much to do and not enough time to do it. So delegating is essential. As an employee it will take the pressure off you and leave you with more time  to concentrate on the important things. While as a manager it will empower your staff and encourage a positive work environment.

VALUE YOUR TEAM

Treat people as you want to be treated and ensure you connect with all your employees on a personal level one way or another. Of course be assertive when it’s needed but getting to know each individual will earn their respect and encourage a positive working environment for everyone.

SWITCH OFF

Try to switch off your brain when you leave  the office. If that’s not possible at least allow yourself two or  three hours each evening when you focus your mind on something other than work. This will ensure your batteries are recharged and you’re ready to face the next day.

Expert Etiquette Advice with BALSAM AL KHALIL

ETIQUETTE SPECIALIST, IMAGE CONSULTANT AND FOUNDER OF ETIQUETTE WITH BALSAM

What advice can you give to women for how they should present themselves in the workplace?

Be professional at all times. Dress for success and monitor what you say and what you do. Most importantly, never abuse your job.

What can we do to promote self-confidence?

Knowledge is a strong weapon. Learn, search, ask  and continuously update your skills. Taking care of your appearance and wellbeing is key as it is an immediate self confidence booster.

When in meetings what was can we do to positively influence those around us?

Wear your smile at all times. Listen more than you talk and when you talk be precise and to the point. Always maintain eye contact with the other party.

How about interviews, what would be your advice?

Do your homework before you head to your interview. Do some background research on the company and dress for the job. Always arrive ten minutes before your scheduled time to ensure you have adequate time to fill in any forms and make sure to bring all your documents with you. Never discuss the salary unless discussed and never reveal secrets of your previous employment.

How important are good manners in the workplace?

They are very important. You get what you deserve and you get treated as you treat people. Respect and professionalism are key.

What advice would you have for those who find it difficult to interact with others?

Check your weak points and seek professional guidance.

And what about advice for those who struggle to socialise with strangers?

Enroll in Social Etiquette classes – you will notice the difference it makes.

When travelling for business what are the rules of etiquette we should remember? 

Never abuse what you are offered and don’t mix business and pleasure.

How would you define a “power women”?

As an educated, intellectual, well informed and self-confident lady who dresses for success in all occasions.

What struggles do you find many women that come to you have?

Getting stuck where they are and not knowing how to go to the next level.

And what are you biggest challenges when you meet a new client?

Turning a difficult situation to a success.

Can you tell us about your biggest career success to date?

I am blessed to have many, however being the first female to head up a bank in the Gulf Region will always be in mind.

What does the term women’s empowerment mean to you?

Empowerment is amazing but never comes easily. It has to be earned by dictation, determination, great know-how and support from superiors.

By Lindsay Judge

DOLCE & GABBANA’S SS19 SHOW EMBRACED WOMEN OF ALL SHAPES AND SIZES.

Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring 2019 show was about empowering women of every size to feel confident and beautiful in their own skin, and at the same time remind the world that you don’t have to be a size zero to wear their designs. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana believe all women are “queens” and all men “kings” and with this collection they aimed to prove just that.

With a brand like Dolce & Gabbana who has such an iconic image you know it’s going to be a beautiful collection. Each collection is as vibrant, colourful and visionary as the next, personifying the brand and bringing together diverse design elements in perfect harmony. The Spring 2019 collection was no different – in true D&G style it featured bold floral prints, baroque fabrics, form-flattering dresses, tulle layers, corseted Basques, elegant embroideries – you name it they had it. But it is the message of this collection that perhaps speaks more than the pieces themselves.

A question that’s regularly asked in today’s society is “is there still a need for the runway experience in the luxury industry?” Well in Dolce & Gabbana’s world the answer is most certainly yes. Their presentations are so much more than just a fashion show, they are a way for the Italian designers to express themselves and get across the D&G vision and the message they are trying to convey.

This season’s message it seems, was to encourage all women (and men) to embrace their body and feel confident in their own skin. Women of all shapes, sizes, backgrounds and ages walked the runway. A stellar cast included Ashley Graham, Monica Bellucci, Emily Ratajkowski, Helena Christiansen and many more recognisable faces as well as models who were found in “street castings” – mums, daughters, grandmothers, sons.

The overall theme of the show was “DNA”. The designer’s fingerprints were in fact projected onto screens within the showspace and the message was to celebrate the DNA and the body you were born with. No matter what that may be there is a Dolce & Gabbana dress or suit waiting for you!

As timepieces director of Fabergé, Aurélie Picaud is finding new ways to entice the customer of today’s generation.

Fabergé has a rich history of centuries of craftmanship and surprise. Traditionally known for its Imperial Eggs, it is a brand than many have heard of but often don’t know its true beauty and the story behind the brand.

That is something Aurélie Picaud is trying to change. As Timepieces Director Picaud was given the challenge of telling this story in a modern way through the development of new watch collections. Since joining the brand in 2013 Picaud has strengthened Fabergé’s timepiece novelties and paved her way in a male-dominated industry to spearhead the development of five collections that have included revolutionary mechanisms and techniques.

She handpicked a team from scratch to assist her and has since been pushing the boundaries of craftmanship to the next level. For Picaud the thing that makes Fabergé unique is the element of surprise, and that is something that was a key talking point when we met with her on a recent visit to Dubai. Fresh from opening the new Fabergé boutique in Dubai Mall, we got to talk to Picaud to find out what it is that makes these pieces so special.

What can you tell us about your role within Fabergé?

Everyone knows Fabergé for their eggs but what many people don’t know is that from 1917 the brand was also creating wristwatches and clocks that integrated a specific movement that told the time in a new way. They were already working with the best people in the industry at that time – Vacheron Constantin was there for the movement for example. In 1917 the Bolshevik Revolution happened and Fabergé was selling through different licences. It was then bought by Pallinghurst in 2007. In 2013 Faberge started looking for someone who would re-launch the watches sector internally. And that was me.

When I came on board the brief was “we want to launch new watch collections in Basel in eighteen months”. So it was a big challenge! Very exciting but we had to be very organised and make sure we could do everything we wanted to do. The philosophy behind what we wanted to develop was to create new mechanical movements that were exclusive to Fabergé and told our story. Fabergé is of course about the highest level of craftmanship, but the difference between us and other brands is that we are about creating a surprise and an emotion. The same emotion that you have with the Imperial Eggs. We wanted to really replicate that through our watches.

How do you think you’ve done that with the collections so far?

Lady Compliquée Peacock was the first watched we launched in 2015. As this was the first watch we were designing we had to decide who in the industry we would like to work with. I knew this watchmaker Agenhor, a movement manufacturer, and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht the front man of the company, is a great watchmaker who is famous for being able to translate the highest level of watchmaking into something that tells a story. So for Fabergé this was perfect. We didn’t intend to do everything internally because we know you can’t be the best at everything and at this time Fabergé was already working with masters. So we contacted Wiederrecht and explained how we wanted to develop a new movement unique to Fabergé which meant that every hour there is a surprise to be discovered in the dial. He got really excited by this. Then I told him it had to be ready in eighteen months and he told me I was crazy! But he still agreed to come on board.

Looking into the archives we discovered a beautiful peacock egg. The feathers would open as the egg was manually winded. It was super impressive. So we came to the idea that we could replicate this within the watch. It’s really about telling the hours and the minutes in a completely new and unique way.

And does this element of surprise run though all of the novelties?

Yes it does. For the second collection we again took inspiration from the Fabergé archives. We discovered this beautiful Fabergé clock, which was very specific because the hands weren’t in the centre of the clock, only on the outside so there is a lot of creativity that you can have, particularly in the centre of the watch which, in this case, represents the centre of the egg and the surprise. So we were lucky enough to be able to develop a new mechanical movement with a completely new design. The clock that we found had a big “man in the moon” face in the centre and for the watch we took inspiration from this. When the watch catches the light you see the man’s face in the centre. So this is the element of surprise as only the wearer can see the face as if it is a secret just for them. These watches can be customised by clients as well so you can add a secret message inside with anything you want.

Why do you think it’s so important to focus on the history of the brand?

When you look at the Fabergé archive in terms of creativity it’s endless. I also think it’s so important to celebrate our roots and our values and to interpret these in a very contemporary way. So the aim is to tell the Fabergé story but in today’s world.

What’s one thing that you still want to achieve at Fabergé?

We have started establishing the collections but what I want to do is to continue surprising people. In the world of today this is not always easy because people have everything, so I want to really continue to make people dream and put a smile on the faces of those who are discovering our product.

What challenges do you face in getting people to realise what Fabergé is doing in watchmaking?

It’s true everyone knows Fabergé for the eggs. So I think the challenge is more in the educational process. Now that we have established the collection we need to start seeing our clients and retailers and telling them the story. When they hear this they will have the same feeling that we have so it really is important to be educating them in this. Everything has been directly inspired from the Imperial Eggs so it’s a case of making people understand what the story is. I think with digital becoming so present it is also a good opportunity for us to be able to tell the story to a new audience.

Do you think storytelling is something that really adds to a brand in today’s society?

Yes personally I really think so. Particularly for watches. I don’t think people really need a watch to tell the time today, so for me a luxury watch needs to be about something else. That’s why I think the story is so important. People love to know about what goes on behind the scenes.

You mentioned how people don’t need a watch to tell the time today – how is that something that you overcome as a watchmaker?

It has to become more poetic rather than anything. We aren’t competing with smart watches or anything like that we are offering something completely different and expressing our key values. People may not remember what you present to them but they will always remember the way you made them feel and that is exactly what we want to do.

Who is the woman that wears a Fabergé watch?

I would say she is very international, and a lover of art as our watches are more like works of art. She is someone who likes something very exclusive and wants something different that she can show and explain to people.

What can you tell us about the stones that you use?

Coloured gemstones are something that is really important to Fabergé. Even before 1917 Fabergé was always mixing together colours that did not necessarily go together, but in the final design looked beautiful. So we try to continue that. But also our mother company is Gemfields. Gemfields is the world leader in responsibly sourced coloured gemstones. So what is really key to us is knowing that all of our stones are sourced in the right way.

I recently went to visit the mine in Zambia and I discovered the beauty of the rough emerald. Usually we only see polished ones but the rough one is for me so impressive because it’s very artistic and unique and different every time. So I decided to take this for one of the watch designs. We combined the image of Zambia from the sky (the rivers and green landscape) and we decided to mirror this shape with a rough emerald that was hand-carved. It was so challenging because the stone was so fragile but it is really amazing. Coloured gemstones are so important to us. With many of our watches the clients can choose the exact gemstones they want. This is one of our strengths – to really involve the client through the process.

How important is sustainability to Fabergé?

I think sustainability is something that today’s generation is more sensitive to and you have to be very sensitive to it as a luxury brand. Clients today expect that a luxury brand will do anything they can to be sustainable. From our side even from a human point of view, we work only with the watch masters and we have to know the conditions they are working in so there are no issues. On a materials point of view we work closely with our suppliers so that we are able to trace everything back through its entire chain.

How important do you think it is to sustain craftsmanship?

I think with a brand like Fabergé that is so exclusive and luxury, craftsmanship is something that we should really try to keep. The client loves it and wants to see and know the people that are working on the watches. There are some techniques that we use that are done in almost the same way they were done in 1917 and they have to be done by a human. Where it is more challenging is that sometimes the clients don’t understand the work that goes into something and they compare us with other brands who make watches in a much more industrial way, which they shouldn’t do because these brands are making thousands of watches. When you are more exclusive you really have to educate people to make them understand the skills that are behind these pieces.

What is it that the customers in The Middle East love about Fabergé?

Of course they love the gemstones. The people here are very educated in terms of craftsmanship and the setting of stones etc. We quite often do special limited edition pieces for The Middle East because people here like bigger watches that are really exclusive. We are able to be quite flexible and really offer something that is bespoke for the client. We recently opened the boutique which was a natural move for us. Our client is so international and so is Dubai so it really made sense.

What can you tell us about your men’s offerings?

We are working on men’s watches in the same way to offer the element of surprise. With the men’s watches we are trying to offer surprises that are much more functional and technical. For example there is one watch that when you look in the right angle it will show you the time in a second time zone. It’s hidden within the watch so it’s a surprise for the wearer. We developed a completely new movement for this.

We are actually aiming to not just have a 50/50 split on men’s and women’s watches but to go even further. I think we can say that there are less “men’s watches” or “women’s watches” today. We are very surprised that people can be attracted to any watch that doesn’t have to be specifically for men and women so this is something we are exploring more with our designs.

What’s your favourite Fabergé piece of all time?

My favourite piece is the Winter Egg. We actually have a watch that was directly inspired by this. It has the same mechanism as the peacock, but instead of having the wings opening it’s a frozen lake created in mother of pearl. The Winter Egg was made in 1913. It was very contemporary for the time, it was fully white with snowflakes and very well done. I love the story as it was made by a young designer who was a woman and for that time it was so unusual.

How would you describe Fabergé in one word?

One word is so hard! I would say artistry, colours and surprise.

What’s the motto that you live your life by?

Do it with passion or don’t do it at all.